ABOUT THIS RECIPEGolden-brown edges, fresh parsley
Funghi trifolati is a simple Italian preparation of mushrooms with olive oil, garlic and parsley. The name refers to the way the mushrooms are cut, not to truffles: there are none in this dish. The combination is at its best when the mushrooms take center stage and the seasonings complement them rather than overpowering them. It works well as a contorno, a side dish alongside, for example, polenta, meat or eggs.
A hot, roomy frying pan matters more than a long ingredient list. Mushrooms contain a lot of moisture; if too many are in the pan at once, they release that moisture and are more likely to steam than brown. So cook them in batches and give them a little time to brown before turning them. A heavy frying pan holds heat well, but an ordinary wide pan also works as long as you don’t overcrowd it.
Button mushrooms are available year-round and provide a mild, firm base. Chestnut mushrooms have a more pronounced flavor; oyster mushrooms also work, but tear or cut them into similarly sized pieces. A mixed selection adds variety in texture, but choose mushrooms that feel dry and firm. Clean them with a small brush or a lightly damp cloth. There’s no need to soak them, and doing so can make the surface wetter, which makes browning more difficult.
Add the garlic only once the mushrooms have browned: this gives it time to become fragrant without burning. Add the parsley at the end so the leaves stay fresh. Flat-leaf parsley is easy to chop finely, but curly parsley works too. Keep the flavor bright with just salt and black pepper; extra lemon or cheese isn’t needed for this simple version.
Serve the mushrooms straight away, while the edges are still a little firm. They go well with soft polenta, an omelet or roasted meat, and can also be served on a slice of toasted bread. If you want to prepare them ahead, cool them promptly after cooking and cover and refrigerate them within two hours. Use within two days and reheat thoroughly in a pan; they will be a little softer after storing.