ABOUT THIS RECIPEBeans with Their Own Cooking Liquid
Frijoles de olla literally means beans from the pot: the beans are gently cooked until tender and kept whole, with some of their cooking liquid. That makes this different from refried beans, where cooked beans are later mashed or fried. Pinto beans are a practical choice: they become creamy inside and usually hold their shape well when simmered gently. Dried beans keep for a long time and can be used year-round; when buying them, pay particular attention to whether the package has been open for a long time, as older beans can take noticeably longer to soften.
Soaking overnight shortens the cooking time and helps the beans cook more evenly. Rinse them first and remove any stones or damaged beans. After soaking, drain off the water and use fresh water for cooking. If you don’t have time to soak them first, you can cook them unsoaked; allow for a longer, less predictable cooking time and check regularly that there’s enough water in the pot. The beans should stay submerged while they cook, but they don’t need to boil hard: a gentle simmer prevents the outsides from breaking down before the centers soften.
Onion and garlic give the cooking liquid a mild, savory base. Epazote, an herb used in Mexican bean dishes, adds a distinctive herbal aroma if you can find it. It isn’t essential: leave it out if it’s unavailable rather than pretending another herb tastes exactly the same. Add the salt when the beans are almost tender. That way, you can judge how done they are and season the cooking liquid without having to guess about the cooking time.
Serve the beans in a deep bowl with enough cooking liquid to keep them juicy. Chopped cilantro is a fresh, optional finishing touch; warm corn tortillas, rice or other Mexican dishes go well with them. Refrigerate leftovers, covered, within two hours and use them within three to four days. Reheat the beans with their liquid in a pot until piping hot throughout; add a splash of water if the liquid has thickened during storage.