ABOUT THIS RECIPEBriny mussels, fresh lime
This is a modern, Vietnamese-inspired meal with rice as its base and mussels adding a briny note. The combination of fish sauce, lime, chilli and coriander reflects flavour contrasts found in many Vietnamese dishes, though this isn’t a traditional regional recipe. Leek is a practical, mild vegetable here: it turns soft and slightly sweet, while the garlic and chilli oil add depth.
Chilled rice matters more than using a particular variety. It stays firmer as it fries, and the surface can brown instead of the rice clumping together and turning mushy. If possible, cook the rice ahead of time, spread it out on a tray so it cools faster, and cover and refrigerate it within two hours. Use it cold. Rice left at room temperature for a long time isn’t safe to store for later; cool leftovers promptly and heat them until piping hot when serving again.
A wok is handy, but a large frying pan works too. Fry the rice in a thin layer and keep the heat high: this helps moisture evaporate quickly and gives some of the grains a little colour. If your pan is small, cook in two batches. A pan full of rice cools down too much and is more likely to steam than fry. Stir regularly, but let the grains sit against the hot pan for a little while between stirs.
Use cooked mussels, such as chilled mussel meat or mussels thawed from frozen. Add them right at the end and heat them briefly; frying them for longer makes them tough quickly. Fish sauce is salty and savoury, so taste the rice before adding extra salt. No fish sauce on hand? Soy sauce can be used instead, but it gives a different, less briny flavour. Chilli oil varies greatly in heat: start with a small amount and add more to taste.
Serve straight away, while the rice is warm and the crispy fried onions are still crunchy. The lime brightens the whole dish; put extra wedges on the table if you like. A simple bowl of cucumber or a green salad goes well if you want to make the meal more substantial. Cool leftovers quickly and store them covered in the refrigerator; reheat them thoroughly once and preferably eat them the next day.