French Pumpkin Gratin with Comté

Pumpkin Beneath a Golden-Brown Crust

This gratin is all about the contrast between sweet, tender pumpkin and the rich, slightly nutty flavor of Comté. The cheese melts between the slices and forms a golden-brown crust on top, while the cream keeps the pumpkin tender as it cooks. Garlic gives the cream a savory base, and a little nutmeg warms up the flavor without overpowering the pumpkin. Serve the gratin in modest portions: it’s rich enough to sit alongside a main course, rather than take its place.

Pumpkin is an obvious choice from fall through winter. Butternut squash is easy to peel and slice evenly. Musquée de Provence squash works too, as long as the slices are about the same thickness. Aim for around three millimeters: thicker slices take longer to cook and may cook unevenly. Use a sharp knife and a stable cutting board; a mandoline works too, but watch your fingers. Remove the peel and seeds before slicing.

A gratin cooks gently in the oven, allowing the cream to warm up and seep between the pumpkin slices. Too much cream will make the result watery rather than creamy, so keep the quantities balanced. Covering the dish at first gives the pumpkin time to soften; uncovered, the cheese may brown before the center is cooked through. Remove the foil toward the end so the top can color. Let the dish stand for a little while after baking: the cream will set slightly, making it easier to serve.

Comté has a distinctive but not sharp cheese flavor. If you can’t find it, Gruyère or Beaufort are good substitutes; choose a cheese that melts well and grate it yourself for an even layer. The gratin goes well with roast chicken, but also with a green salad and a fresh vinaigrette to balance the cream and cheese. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and eat them within two to three days. Reheat them in the oven until piping hot throughout; the top will crisp up again a little.