ABOUT THIS RECIPEMushrooms, butter and a soft fold
This omelette is all about the contrast between the firm, earthy mushrooms and the soft egg. Porcini have a pronounced, woodsy flavor; chestnut mushrooms are an easy-to-find substitute with a milder aroma. If using fresh porcini, check them carefully and brush away any sand or dirt. It’s best not to rinse mushrooms for long: they absorb water easily, which means they’re more likely to steam than brown in the pan.
A large, hot frying pan helps prevent this. Cook the mushrooms in a single layer and give them time to release their moisture and let it evaporate. Don’t stir constantly; once the pan gets drier, the cut sides can brown. Cook in two batches if the mushrooms won’t fit in the pan with room to spare. Only then add butter for flavor and a glossy finish. Stir in the parsley at the end so its fresh, green flavor remains distinct.
For a French omelette, briefly beat the eggs with salt and pepper; they don’t need to become frothy. Let them set in butter over medium heat, moving the pan and drawing the set egg toward the center with a spatula. Take the pan off the heat when the top is still slightly moist. The residual heat will finish cooking the egg as you fold it. This keeps the inside soft while the outside stays pale and pliable. Cook the omelettes one at a time; an overcrowded pan makes it hard to cook them evenly.
Porcini are mainly available in autumn, while chestnut mushrooms can generally be found all year round. Both work in this dish, but cut them into similar-sized pieces so they cook evenly. If you only have regular mushrooms, feel free to use those. A small amount of dried porcini can add extra flavor, but soak it first and squeeze it out well; it doesn’t replace the amount of fresh mushrooms in this recipe.
The salad, with a simple olive oil and vinegar dressing, cuts through the buttery omelette. Choose sturdy leaves such as butter lettuce or little gem, and dress the salad just before eating. Bread is handy for picking up the last bits of egg and mushroom. Serve the omelette as soon as it’s cooked: if it sits, the egg loses its soft texture. The quantities are for two people, with one omelette per person.