Flaky puff pastry cases with a creamy mushroom ragout: brown the mushrooms well first for a rich, savory filling.
Vol-au-vent is a French preparation made with puff pastry and a warm filling; the smaller pastries, often called bouchées à la reine, are also filled with creamy ragout. The exact name and filling vary depending on the size and recipe. In this meat-free version, mushrooms take center stage instead of poultry or a combination of meat and mushrooms. The contrast makes the dish: light, crisp pastry against a soft sauce with substantial, browned mushrooms.
For deep flavor, a hot, roomy frying pan matters more than a long list of ingredients. Cut the mushrooms into even pieces and fry them in batches so the moisture can evaporate and they develop browned edges instead of steaming. Wait until they have browned before adding salt; salt draws moisture to the surface. A little thyme goes well with mushrooms, while stock adds savoriness to the sauce. Use vegetable or mushroom stock; choose a mild variety so the mushroom flavor remains distinct.
The sauce starts with butter and flour, which cook together briefly before the stock is added a little at a time. This lets the flour thicken the liquid without forming lumps. Cream makes the sauce silky, but don’t let it get too thin: it should cling to the mushrooms rather than run out of the pastry case. A little lemon juice at the end lifts the richness. Brown mushrooms have a pronounced flavor; regular white mushrooms work too. You can replace some with oyster mushrooms, but cut them into bite-size pieces and fry them in batches as well.
Ready-made pastry cases make this an easy main course without having to laminate puff pastry yourself. Heat them according to the package instructions and fill them just before serving so the bottoms stay crisp. Serve with, for example, a green salad with a sharp vinaigrette or boiled green beans. After cooking, any leftover filling can be cooled quickly, stored covered in the refrigerator for up to two days, and then reheated until piping hot throughout. Store the pastry cases separately and reheat them on their own so they don’t go soft.
Heat the pastry cases according to the package instructions. Keep them warm and dry afterward, without filling them yet.
Heat the oil in a roomy frying pan over medium-high to high heat. Fry the mushrooms in two or three batches, without overcrowding the pan. Don’t stir them until they are browned underneath. Cook for 8–10 minutes in total and season with pepper and a little salt. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate.
Reduce the heat to medium and melt 15 g butter in the same pan. Gently cook the shallot for 2 minutes. Add the remaining 25 g butter; once it has melted, stir in the flour. Cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly.
Pour the stock into the flour mixture in small splashes, whisking until smooth each time. Add the cream, thyme and nutmeg. Simmer gently for 3–4 minutes, until the sauce has thickened slightly.
Return the mushrooms to the pan and let the ragout simmer gently for another 2–3 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and parsley. Taste and season with more salt and pepper as needed.
Place the warm pastry cases on plates and spoon in the mushroom ragout. Serve immediately, with the remaining ragout alongside.
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