French Mushroom Tourte with Thyme

A sturdy crust, a dry filling

A tourte is a savoury pie with pastry all around the filling: a base, raised sides and a lid. For this version, homemade pâte brisée makes a sturdy, crisp crust that cuts neatly into wedges. The pastry contains little moisture and is kneaded briefly, so the butter stays cold and the crust doesn’t turn tough after baking. A round tin about 22 centimetres across makes filling and slicing easy; a springform tin works too, as long as its sides are high enough.

Chestnut mushrooms give the filling a rich, earthy flavour. Oyster mushrooms are softer and pull apart into strands, giving the filling more variety in texture. Both are generally available all year round. Wild mushrooms have a distinct season, but they aren’t a necessary substitute: use them only if you can identify and prepare them reliably. You can replace the oyster mushrooms with extra chestnut mushrooms; just don’t cut them too small, so they still have some texture after baking.

The key to a juicy but not soggy tourte is cooking the mushrooms before they go into the pastry. Cook them in a large, hot pan, working in batches if needed. In an overcrowded pan, they release moisture and are more likely to steam than brown. Let that moisture evaporate before adding the shallot and thyme. Then leave the filling to cool and only stir in the crème fraîche once it has cooled. A warm, moist filling can soften the pastry base.

Cold pastry is easier to roll out and less likely to shrink in the oven. So make the base and lid a little larger than the tin, press the edges together firmly and cut a small opening in the centre of the lid. This opening lets steam escape. The tourte is ready when the pastry is deep golden brown; then let it rest briefly so the filling sets and the wedges hold their shape.

Serve the tourte warm or lukewarm with a green salad dressed with a mustard and vinegar vinaigrette. Its fresh, slightly sharp flavour balances the buttery crust and earthy filling. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and reheat them until piping hot in an oven at about 160 °C; the oven helps keep the crust firmer than the microwave.