French Cauliflower Gratin with Béchamel and Gruyère

Tender Cauliflower, Golden Crust

A cauliflower gratin is all about the contrast between tender vegetables and a thin, golden-brown top. So cook the florets until just tender first: they’ll cook a little more in the oven, but they don’t need long in there. If they’re already falling apart when you drain them, the gratin can quickly become watery and lose its structure. Cut the florets to roughly the same size so they cook in the same amount of time.

Béchamel gives the cauliflower a creamy coating without making the dish too heavy. The ratio of butter to flour thickens the milk; after adding the milk, let the mixture simmer gently until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Whisk regularly to prevent lumps. Drain the cooked cauliflower well, since any water clinging to it will thin the sauce. Nutmeg and black pepper add a little depth without overpowering the cauliflower’s mild flavor.

Gruyère melts well and develops a savory, browned crust in the oven’s broiler heat. The cheese goes both in the sauce and on top, so its flavor runs through the gratin and the top gets nicely browned. Gruyère is a Swiss cheese often used in French gratins. No Gruyère on hand? Comté is a good substitute; a young Alpine cheese works too, although it may taste a little milder. Choose a cheese that melts well rather than one that is very dry and crumbly.

Cauliflower is available in the Netherlands for much of the year; the exact local harvest period varies by season and growing method. Choose a firm head with compact florets and cut away any small blemishes. You can break the cauliflower into florets ahead of time, but cook it shortly before making the gratin. The béchamel can also be made ahead: cover and store it in the refrigerator, then warm it gently with a splash of milk if it has thickened.

Set the dish straight from the oven on the table and serve with bread to mop up the sauce. A salad with a tangy dressing adds freshness alongside the creamy sauce and cheese. Once cooled, cover and refrigerate leftovers within two hours, and eat them within two days. Reheat them thoroughly in an oven dish; an individual portion can also be reheated in the microwave until piping hot throughout.