Eggplant Rolls with Ricotta and Tomato Sauce

Tender slices, fresh filling

This is a modern, Italian-inspired starter: not an attempt to recreate one specific regional classic, but a combination that lets eggplant, ricotta, tomato and basil shine. The eggplant is roasted until tender first, so the slices are pliable and take on a lightly roasted flavour. Ricotta makes the filling creamy, while lemon zest and basil keep it fresh and fragrant. The tomato sauce provides a thin, lightly tangy base rather than a thick layer that overwhelms the rolls.

Eggplant is at its best in the warmer months, roughly from summer to early autumn. Choose firm ones with smooth, glossy skin and a similar size so the slices are about the same size and cook evenly. Slice them lengthwise, not too thin; slices about eight millimetres thick will hold together when rolled. Brush them with oil and roast until pliable and lightly coloured in places. If they’re undercooked, they’ll be difficult to roll, while very dark or dry edges may crack.

Ricotta varies in firmness from brand to brand. If yours is very wet, drain it in a sieve first; otherwise, the filling will run out more easily. A little grated hard cheese adds savouriness and seasons the filling; leave it out if you prefer a milder filling. No fresh basil on hand? A smaller amount of finely chopped parsley will also work, though the aroma will be different. Use passata or smooth canned tomatoes for the sauce, and keep it deliberately simple: garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper are enough.

The brief time in the oven after the rolls are filled brings everything up to serving temperature without making the ricotta heavy or dry. So spoon only a thin layer of sauce into the baking dish and arrange the rolls side by side, seam-side down. Serve two per person as a starter, warm from the dish, with a few basil leaves and bread to mop up the tomato sauce. Leftovers can be covered and kept in the fridge, then gently reheated until piping hot; the eggplant will be a little softer.