Airy dark chocolate mousse gets a fresh counterpoint from sour cherry compote and a handful of toasted buckwheat. You can make most of the three components ahead; add the crunchy element just before serving.
Dark chocolate has a deep, slightly bitter flavor and a creamy texture. There’s no cream in this mousse: whipped egg whites make the mixture airy, while the chocolate gives it enough body once chilled. A little salt brings out the cocoa flavor without making the dessert taste salty. Choose chocolate you enjoy eating on its own, preferably around 70 percent cocoa. A much higher cocoa percentage will make the mousse firmer and more bitter; you may then need to make the compote a little sweeter.
When making a mousse with raw egg whites, it’s important to work carefully. Use pasteurized egg whites that are suitable for whipping according to the package, and make sure your bowl and beaters are clean and free of grease. Beat the egg whites until they form firm, glossy peaks: egg whites that aren’t whipped enough won’t add much air, while dry, grainy egg whites are difficult to fold in evenly. Let the melted chocolate cool until it’s still fluid but no longer hot. If the chocolate is too warm, the egg whites may deflate; if it has already started to set, it will be difficult to mix in.
Sour cherries make a distinctly fruity counterpoint. Fresh sour cherries are mostly available in summer, but frozen cherries work all year round and don’t need to be thawed first for this compote. Simmer the fruit gently until juicy but still with recognizable pieces. Taste before adding extra sugar: cherries vary in tartness. A little lemon juice keeps the flavor bright. If you can’t find sour cherries, use tart redcurrants or blackberries; they’ll make a different, but still vibrant, compote.
Buckwheat is naturally firm and develops a nutty flavor and crunchy bite when toasted in a dry skillet. Stir regularly and remove the groats from the pan as soon as they smell fragrant and turn lightly golden, as they can burn quickly. Use whole buckwheat groats, not buckwheat flour or cooked buckwheat. You can replace them with coarsely chopped hazelnuts if you don’t have buckwheat, although you’ll lose the earthy, toasted character.
Make the mousse and compote a few hours ahead so the mousse has time to set in the refrigerator. Keep both covered and chilled, at a maximum of 4 °C, and serve within two days; sprinkle on the buckwheat at the last moment or it will lose its crunch. Spoon the mousse into small glasses or shallow bowls and add a little cold or room-temperature compote to each serving. This way, the chocolate, fruit and toasted groats remain distinct in every bite.
Melt the chocolate in a double boiler or in short bursts in the microwave. Stir until smooth and let cool until the chocolate is still fluid but no longer hot, about 35–40 °C.
Put the cherries, 25 g sugar and lemon juice in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer gently for 8–12 minutes, until the cherries are soft and the liquid has reduced slightly. Let the compote cool.
Meanwhile, toast the buckwheat groats in a dry skillet over medium heat. Shake or stir regularly and cook for 3–5 minutes, until lightly golden and nutty-smelling. Transfer to a plate and let cool.
Beat the egg whites in a clean, grease-free bowl until foamy. Gradually add 20 g sugar while beating, then continue beating until firm, glossy peaks form.
Stir the salt into the cooled chocolate. Fold in about a third of the egg whites to loosen the chocolate. Then gently fold in the rest in two additions, until no large white streaks remain.
Divide the mousse among four glasses or bowls. Cover and chill for at least 3 hours, until set. Serve with the cherry compote and sprinkle with the toasted buckwheat just before serving.
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