ABOUT THIS RECIPEFresh, creamy and crunchy in every bite
This modern starter is all about three distinct textures: juicy, cool cucumber, tender crab and crunchy green apple. The gentle sweetness of the crab is balanced by lemon and the fresh, slightly tart apple. A small amount of mayonnaise binds the filling without overpowering its flavour; dill and black pepper add a savoury, aromatic finish. Serve the rolls chilled as a first course, for example before a meal of fish or vegetables, or arrange them on a platter as part of a light lunch.
A firm, straight cucumber works best for making long ribbons. Run a vegetable peeler lengthwise along it, turning the cucumber a little each time so the ribbons stay wide enough to roll. The seedy centre is often too wet and less firm, so stop peeling when you reach it. Gently pat the ribbons dry with kitchen paper. There’s no need to salt them: salt draws moisture from the cucumber and can make the rolls limp. A wide vegetable peeler gives you even ribbons, but you can also carefully cut them into thin slices with a sharp knife.
Crab has a delicate texture, so fold the filling together gently rather than stirring it vigorously. Use fresh crab meat or well-drained canned crab meat; check it for any pieces of shell before using. The amount of mayonnaise is deliberately modest. It’s best to start with a little and see whether the filling holds together: too much sauce makes it heavy and can release moisture onto the cucumber ribbons. Green apple, such as Granny Smith, keeps its crunch and adds enough acidity to balance the creaminess. Dice the apple shortly before mixing so the pieces are less likely to discolour.
Lemon zest adds aroma, while a little juice keeps the filling tasting bright. Use only the yellow zest and avoid grating into the white, bitter pith. If you don’t have fresh dill, finely chopped chives make a good substitute; they taste different but also go well with crab and lemon. For a less pronounced mayonnaise flavour, you can replace some of it with crème fraîche. The filling will be a little fresher and less firm, so add it in small amounts.
Don’t wrap the ribbons too tightly around the filling: this keeps the cucumber intact and leaves the crab visible at the top. Place the rolls seam-side down on a chilled platter and finish with dill and pepper. You can make the filling ahead and keep it covered in the fridge, but ideally assemble the rolls just before serving. Keep any leftovers covered in the fridge and eat them the same day; the cucumber will become wetter and less crunchy over time.