Crispy tofu with roasted carrots and green herb oil

Four textures, one plate

Here, tofu takes center stage when you press out the moisture and tear it into rough pieces. The ragged edges have more surface area than neat cubes, so they crisp up nicely in the oven. Firm tofu works best for this; soft tofu falls apart when torn and retains too much moisture. Pat the pieces dry after pressing, too. A thin coating of cornstarch helps dry the outside, and a little oil ensures even browning.

At a high oven temperature, carrots become sweeter and develop browned edges while staying tender in the middle. Cut them into pieces of roughly the same thickness so the thin ends don't burn before the thicker parts are cooked. Bunched carrots are often available in spring and summer, but regular winter carrots work all year round. If you use thin bunched carrots, keep an eye on the cooking time and remove smaller pieces from the baking sheet earlier if needed.

The green oil is meant to be a fresh, herby counterpoint to the roasted flavors. Coriander adds a pronounced citrusy note; parsley makes the flavor milder and greener. If you don't want to use coriander, replace it with the same amount of extra parsley. A blender or immersion blender makes the oil smooth, but you can also chop everything with a knife: the result will be coarser, more like a herb sauce. Don't make the oil too far ahead; its color is best when freshly mixed.

Lemon yogurt adds acidity and creaminess without hiding the crispy tofu. Greek yogurt makes a thick sauce that holds its shape on the plate; regular full-fat yogurt works too, but give it a quick stir first or drain it if it's very runny. Taste the sauce before serving: the lemon should taste fresh, not overpowering. The oil and sauce can be made ahead and stored covered in the refrigerator; it's best to use the herb oil within two days.

Serve the dish straight away, while the tofu is still crispy, and spoon the sauce beside the tofu rather than over it. That way, the contrast between crispy, tender, fresh and creamy stays intact. For a more substantial meal, serve with couscous, bulgur or warm flatbread; they're not needed to make the dish work, but they're great for soaking up the leftover sauce. Leftover tofu softens in the refrigerator. Reheat it on a baking sheet in a hot oven until heated through; the outside will firm up again, but won't be quite like freshly cooked tofu.