ABOUT THIS RECIPEFrom Soft Centers to Browned Edges
Sweet potatoes have a gentle sweetness of their own, and roasting makes them tender and almost creamy inside. Cut into thick slices, they hold their shape nicely in the middle, while the second cooking step adds color and a firmer outside. Cut the slices as evenly as possible, about two centimeters thick, so they cook in the same amount of time. Sweet potatoes are generally available year-round; choose ones that feel firm and have no soft spots.
The oven cooks the slices through first, without you having to turn them constantly. Then they go into a hot skillet for a short time. This step matters: roasting alone leaves the outside soft, while pan-frying after cooking quickly creates browned, slightly crisp spots. Use a large skillet and work in batches if needed. If the slices overlap, they are more likely to steam than brown. Carefully lower them into the pan after roasting; the tender flesh can break.
Miso adds salt and umami, lemon zest brings fragrance, and a little lemon juice keeps the butter fresh. Use white miso for a mild, slightly sweet flavor; dark miso makes the butter more intense and salty, so taste it before adding extra salt. The butter should be soft, not melted, so the miso and lemon mix through it evenly. Spoon the mixture over the warm slices just before serving: their residual heat melts it without burning the butter in the pan.
Sesame adds a nutty note, and scallions bring a fresh, green bite. Toasted sesame is best; you can briefly toast untoasted seeds in a dry pan and let them cool. A little extra lemon juice at the table works well if you want to cut through the sweetness more. Serve the slices right away as a side dish with, for example, pan-fried tofu, fish, or a simple bowl of rice. The miso-lemon butter is salty enough to season a mild main dish, too.
Refrigerate leftovers covered within two hours and use them within three days. Reheat the slices in a skillet over medium heat until heated through; this will bring back some color on the outside. The butter may firm up once chilled, but it will melt again as the slices warm. Add the scallions and sesame just before serving, if possible, so they keep their fresh bite.