Crispy-fried salmon is served with sweet, charred pointed cabbage and a fresh sauce with parsley, capers and lemon. A fuss-free main course where each element has its own flavor and texture.
This dish is all about contrast, not a long list of ingredients. Salmon is rich and tender inside; the skin turns crispy if you pat it thoroughly dry first and cook the fish skin-side down over moderate heat. Pointed cabbage develops dark spots in a hot pan, making it sweeter while the inside still has a little bite. The herb sauce brings parsley, lemon and capers together: fresh, tangy and salty enough to complement the richer fish without overpowering the cabbage.
Moisture is the biggest enemy of crispy skin. So pat the salmon carefully dry just before cooking, and leave enough room between the fillets in the pan. Press them down gently with a spatula for the first few seconds; this helps more of the skin stay in contact with the hot surface. Then leave the fish alone until the skin is firm and golden brown. A nonstick pan is forgiving, but a well-heated stainless-steel pan works too. Turn the fillets only when they release easily.
Pointed cabbage is mild and cooks faster than firm white cabbage. Cut the wedges so that each piece keeps part of the core; it holds the leaves together as they cook. Work in batches if your pan is small, because a crowded pan will steam the cabbage rather than char it. No pointed cabbage on hand? Use wedges of savoy cabbage or white cabbage and give them a little extra time. The sauce is deliberately coarsely chopped, so you can taste the parsley and capers separately. A little water makes it spoonable without adding extra oil.
Serve the salmon straight away, skin-side up so it stays crispy, and spoon the sauce over the cabbage or serve it alongside. Boiled baby potatoes or bread go well if you want a heartier meal; they aren't needed to complete the dish. You can prepare the cabbage and sauce ahead of time, but cook the fish at the last minute. Once cooled, store leftovers in a covered container in the refrigerator and eat them within two days. Reheat the salmon gently until piping hot all the way through; the skin will be less crispy than when freshly cooked.
Cut the pointed cabbage into 4 wedges, keeping the core intact to hold the leaves together. Pat the salmon fillets thoroughly dry and season both sides with salt and pepper.
Finely chop the parsley and capers. Mix them with the lemon zest, lemon juice, 3 tablespoons olive oil and the water. Taste and add a little salt or pepper if you like.
Heat a large frying pan over medium-high to high heat. Brush the cut sides of the cabbage wedges with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Cook the cabbage in batches, cut-side down in the pan, for about 3 minutes per side, until dark spots appear. Briefly turn the wedges onto their rounded sides too. Transfer them to a plate and keep warm.
Return the pan to medium heat. Place the salmon skin-side down in the dry pan. Gently press the fillets down with a spatula for the first 10 seconds. Cook for 5–7 minutes, until the skin is crispy and the salmon has turned mostly opaque around the edges.
Turn the salmon over and cook the flesh side for another 1–2 minutes, depending on the thickness. Remove the fillets from the pan as soon as they are just cooked through.
Divide the pointed cabbage and salmon among four plates. Spoon the herb sauce over the cabbage and serve the salmon skin-side up so the skin stays crispy.
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