ABOUT THIS RECIPEA Crispy Base, a Sticky Sauce
The base of this bowl is cold, cooked rice fried in a thin layer until crisp. Rice that has already cooled works best: the grains are firmer and less likely to stick together into a soft mass. Use regular long-grain rice or jasmine rice; both make a good, fluffy base. Spread the rice in a wide frying pan and press it down lightly. Let the underside cook undisturbed before turning the rice, so it develops a properly golden-brown crust.
Tamarind gives the sauce a fruity, pronounced tang. The strength and salt content of the paste vary by brand, so taste the sauce before adding it to the pan. Palm sugar balances the acidity, while soy sauce adds salt and umami. If the sauce is too sharp, add a little more sugar; if it tastes flat, a splash of lime juice will help. If using tamarind concentrate instead of tamarind paste, start with less and add more to taste.
Cook the tofu and eggplant separately from the sauce first. This lets the tofu develop a golden-brown crust and the eggplant turn tender with browned edges, rather than having both ingredients start stewing straight away. Firm tofu works well here; pat it dry and cut it into evenly sized cubes. Eggplant absorbs oil as it cooks, so add it in batches and give the cubes room in the pan. Add the sauce at the very end: it will form a glossy coating without completely hiding the fried texture.
Cucumber provides a cool, crisp contrast to the warm, sticky sauce. Thai basil has an aromatic, slightly anise-like fragrance; tear the leaves just before serving so they stay fresh. If you can’t find Thai basil, use regular basil. The aroma is different, but it still goes well with the fresh cucumber and the tartness of the tamarind. For a milder variation, shave the cucumber into thin ribbons instead of slicing it.
Serve the rice as soon as it is crisp, and add the warm tofu and eggplant just before eating. This keeps the contrast between crisp, tender and fresh distinct. To make the meal easier, you can cook the rice ahead of time; cool it quickly and store it covered in the refrigerator. Ideally, use cooked rice within one day, and reheat leftovers only once, until steaming hot throughout. Store the cucumber and basil separately from the warm components.