ABOUT THIS RECIPEThe Crust Makes the Difference
This dish is all about the contrast between rice with a crispy bottom and the soft yolk of an egg cooked just until set. Cucumber adds freshness, while scallions bring a mild, oniony flavor. The chili oil adds heat, sesame gives it a lightly nutty note, and soy sauce with rice vinegar makes the oil savory and sharp enough to season the rice. Drizzle the oil over the bowl just before serving so the rice doesn’t become unnecessarily soft.
Chilled rice works better here than freshly cooked rice: it’s drier and less sticky, making it easier to form a crust. If you’re cooking the rice yourself, spread it out on a tray afterward so it cools quickly, and put it in the fridge within an hour. For this recipe, use rice that has been kept cold and is preferably no more than a day old. Don’t leave rice at room temperature for a long time. Break up any clumps with your fingers or a fork before adding the rice to the pan.
A wide frying pan gives the rice room to cook evenly. Press it into a compact layer and leave it alone; stirring it regularly will prevent a firm crust from forming on the bottom. A nonstick pan makes turning and serving easier, but a well-seasoned cast-iron pan can work too. Don’t turn the heat up so high that the oil smokes. The rice is ready when the bottom is golden brown and releases easily.
The chili oil is intentionally simple: hot oil brings out the aroma of the chili flakes and sesame seeds, while the soy sauce and vinegar are added after heating. This prevents the soy sauce from burning in the hot oil. Adjust the amount of chili flakes if you want less heat. No rice vinegar on hand? A mild white wine vinegar will also work; use a little less and taste the oil before pouring it over the rice.
Serve the bowls as soon as the rice comes out of the pan, with the eggs halved so the yolks can mingle with the chili oil. Add extra cucumber or scallions if you’d like to make the meal fresher. Leftover rice should be kept chilled; when serving it another time, reheat it thoroughly until steaming hot all the way through, and don’t reheat it a second time.