ABOUT THIS RECIPETwo rounds for extra-crispy edges
Here, the potato is the main event, not just a side dish. Allow about 250 grams per person and choose small to medium potatoes that are roughly the same size so they cook at the same time. Waxy potatoes hold their shape nicely after being flattened, while slightly more floury ones develop a rougher surface that can bake up extra crispy. Wash them well and leave the skins on: they help the potatoes keep their shape and give the edges more texture.
The two rounds in the oven each do something different. In the first, the potatoes cook all the way through, without needing to be peeled or parboiled. Then flatten them with the base of a glass or a potato masher, firmly enough to split them open but not turn them into mash. This creates a larger, irregular surface. Oil and high heat in the second round brown those raised edges a deep golden color. Let the potatoes steam off for a few minutes after the first round; a dry surface bakes better than a wet one.
The sauce is thick and fresh, so it clings to the potatoes instead of running straight off. Greek yogurt or drained full-fat yogurt works well. Stir in lemon zest and juice: the zest adds fragrance, while the juice cuts through the creaminess and starchiness. Dill is mild and anise-like, while parsley has a greener, more robust flavor. If you only have one of the herbs, use a little more of it. Add the walnuts just before serving so their crunch doesn’t get lost in the sauce.
This dish works any time potatoes are readily available; there’s no short seasonal window to worry about. It helps to choose potatoes that are about the same size and not to overcrowd the baking sheet. An overcrowded sheet lets moisture escape and gives you fewer browned edges. Serve the potatoes straight from the oven with the cold sauce alongside or underneath, and, for a complete meal, add something like a crisp green salad. Leftovers can be covered and refrigerated within two hours, then used within two days. Reheat them thoroughly on a baking sheet in a hot oven; the edges will crisp up again better than they would in the microwave.