Thick strips of polenta are pan-fried until golden brown and paired with warm, juicy grapes, rosemary and balsamic vinegar. A savory side dish with a soft center, crisp crust and bright sweet-and-sour notes.
Polenta gives this side dish a hearty base: once the cornmeal has cooled, you can cut it into strips and fry them on all sides. The polenta stays soft and mild inside, while the outside develops a thin, golden-brown crust. Grapes bring juicy fruitiness to the dish; balsamic vinegar tones down their sweetness, and rosemary adds a resinous, herbal aroma. Together, the dish is both creamy and crisp, with a touch of acidity that keeps the flavors from feeling heavy.
Use coarse polenta and follow the ratio on the package, as the cooking time varies by type. For strips that hold together, setting is especially important: spread the cooked polenta in a thin, even layer and let it cool completely. In the refrigerator, the cornmeal firms up and cuts neatly without tearing. A small, shallow dish works well; you can line it with baking paper so you can lift the slab out easily later. Don’t cut the polenta too thin, or the strips will dry out more quickly in the pan.
Choose seedless black or green grapes, depending on which look good. Grapes are often at their best in late summer and fall, but firm ones from the store work just fine for this dish. Warm them briefly in a separate pan: they should heat through and burst in a few places, but they don’t need to turn into jam. Stir in the balsamic vinegar toward the end so the sauce becomes lightly syrupy and the grapes mostly keep their shape. Fresh rosemary has a more pronounced aroma than dried, so use less if using dried herbs.
The strips cook most evenly in a roomy frying pan with a thin layer of oil and enough space between them. Turn them only once the first side is firm and golden brown; turning them too soon can pull off the crust. Parmesan and a little butter make the polenta richer, but you can replace the butter with olive oil and leave out the cheese. Serve the grapes straight away over or alongside the hot polenta, for example with roasted vegetables, roast chicken or a green salad. That way, the contrast between crisp and juicy is clearest.
Bring the water and salt to a boil. Slowly sprinkle in the polenta in a thin stream, stirring as you do. Lower the heat and cook according to the package instructions, stirring regularly, until the polenta is thick and pulls away from the pan.
Stir the butter and Parmesan cheese into the polenta. Spoon the mixture into a shallow dish about 20 by 20 cm, lined with baking paper. Spread it into an even layer and let it cool completely. Then refrigerate the dish for at least 90 minutes, until the polenta has set firmly.
Remove the polenta from the dish and cut it into 8 strips. Strip the rosemary needles from one sprig and finely chop them; leave the other sprig whole.
Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Cook the grapes with the whole sprig of rosemary for 4–6 minutes, shaking the pan from time to time, until the grapes are warm and have burst in a few places. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and grind over some black pepper. Spoon the grapes and their juices onto a plate and remove the rosemary sprig.
Wipe the pan clean and heat the remaining 2 tbsp olive oil. Fry the polenta strips in one or two batches, with space between them, for about 3–4 minutes per side, until golden brown and crisp. Turn them carefully with a spatula.
Arrange the polenta on a platter and spoon the grapes and balsamic juices over the top. Sprinkle with the finely chopped rosemary and serve immediately.
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