ABOUT THIS RECIPEFresh and crispy from the frying pan
This side dish is all about the contrast between the chickpeas and the sauce: warm and savoury against cool, creamy and tangy. In the pan, the skins develop brown, crispy spots while the insides stay soft. Canned or jarred chickpeas work best, as they’re already cooked. Drain them well, then pat them thoroughly dry; moisture on the outside slows down browning and can make hot oil splatter.
Use a large frying pan and cook the chickpeas in a single layer. Don’t stir them constantly: give them time to make contact with the hot pan so they can brown. A little oil helps the outside cook evenly. They won’t be crisp all over like oven-roasted snacks; the aim is a crispy skin with a soft centre. So serve them soon after cooking, while that contrast is at its best.
Toasting cumin seeds in the pan brings out their aroma and gives the chickpeas a warm, earthy note. Take care not to burn the seeds: they’re ready as soon as they smell fragrant and turn slightly darker. Whole cumin seeds add a little crunch; ground cumin works too, but add it towards the end so it doesn’t turn bitter. The lemon in the sauce cuts through the creaminess of the yogurt and brightens the herbs.
Parsley gives the sauce a fresh, green base; mint adds a cooler aroma. Finely chop the herbs with a knife, or use a small food processor for a smoother result. Full-fat yogurt makes the sauce thick and smooth. Greek yogurt works well; regular yogurt makes a thinner sauce, so stir it into the herbs a little at a time. No fresh mint on hand? Use extra parsley and adjust the lemon to taste. Taste the sauce before adding salt, as the tanginess of yogurt and lemon can vary.
Spoon the sauce into a shallow dish and arrange the warm chickpeas around it or on top, so some of them stay crispy. This dish goes well with roasted vegetables, flatbread or a simple grain salad. For a more substantial meal, serve it with rice or bulgur. Store any leftovers covered in the fridge, keeping the sauce and chickpeas separate. Reheat the chickpeas in a frying pan; they’ll soften more quickly in the microwave. The sauce is best served cold.