Golden-brown kohlrabi fries get a fresh, creamy counterpart in yoghurt with lemon and chilli. Mint and toasted sesame finish this vegetable-packed side dish with fragrance and a light crunch.
Kohlrabi sometimes gets left in the kitchen because it feels quite different raw and cooked. Cut into thick fries, it develops a firm exterior in the oven while the centre stays juicy and slightly crisp. Its flavour is mild and a little sweet, with hints of cabbage and radish, but without the latter’s sharp bite. Dutch kohlrabi is widely available, especially in late spring and summer; choose bulbs that feel firm and have no dried-out or cracked patches.
Three things are important for golden-brown edges: peel the kohlrabi well, cut the pieces to roughly the same size and pat them dry before adding oil. Kohlrabi contains a lot of moisture, so arrange the fries with space between them on the baking sheet. If they’re piled on top of each other, they’ll steam rather than roast. A hot oven helps colour the outside before the centre softens. Turn the pieces halfway through and take them out once the edges are firm and golden brown; don’t expect exactly the same crispness as potato fries.
The sauce keeps the dish fresh and spicy. Full-fat yoghurt has enough body to cling to the warm fries, while lemon zest and a little juice brighten the mild kohlrabi. Chilli flakes add heat without overpowering the citrus flavour. Start with a small amount and add more to taste. Greek yoghurt works too; it’s thicker and has a fuller flavour. Mint adds a cool, green note, but finely chopped parsley is a handy substitute if you don’t have mint.
Sesame seeds add a nutty flavour and a crisp accent. Toast them briefly in a dry frying pan and keep an eye on them: small seeds colour quickly. Sprinkle them over the fries just before serving so they keep their crunch. Serve the sauce on the side or spoon it onto a platter under the kohlrabi; this helps the roasted edges stay firm for longer. This side dish goes well with grilled vegetables, fish or chicken, and can also be part of a spread with bread and other small dishes. Refrigerate any leftovers within two hours and store the sauce and fries separately. Reheat the kohlrabi on a baking sheet in a hot oven; the outside will soften in the microwave.
Preheat the oven to 220 °C (200 °C fan). Line a large baking sheet with baking paper.
Peel the kohlrabi generously, cut the bulbs into fries about 1½ cm thick and pat them thoroughly dry with a clean tea towel or paper towels.
Toss the fries on the baking sheet with the olive oil, salt and pepper. Spread them out so they touch as little as possible.
Roast the kohlrabi for 25–30 minutes. Turn the fries after about 15 minutes and continue roasting until the edges are golden brown and the centres are still firm.
Meanwhile, toast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan over medium heat for 2–3 minutes, until lightly coloured and fragrant. Shake the pan regularly, then transfer the seeds to a plate.
Mix the yoghurt with the lemon zest, lemon juice and chilli flakes. Taste and add a little more chilli if you like.
Arrange the warm kohlrabi on a platter. Scatter the mint and sesame seeds over the top and serve with the chilli yoghurt.
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