ABOUT THIS RECIPEThree textures, one fresh sauce
This dish is all about the contrast between chickpeas with roasted edges, Swiss chard that’s just tender and a cool sauce that brings everything together. Cumin gives the chickpeas a warm, earthy flavor; lemon and mint keep everything fresh. The yogurt rounds out the sharp acidity and provides a soft contrast to the crunchy legumes. Serve the components together, but keep them separate until just before eating so the chickpeas retain their bite.
For a crisp result, drying the chickpeas matters more than adding extra oil. Rinse canned chickpeas and pat them thoroughly dry with a clean cloth or paper towels. Moisture slows down roasting and makes it harder to get a dry exterior. Spread them in a single layer on a baking sheet; on a crowded sheet, they’re more likely to steam than roast. The chickpeas become firmer and crunchier as they cool, but remain a little creamy inside.
Swiss chard works well in this dish because its leaves and stems cook at different rates. The stems need a little more time, while the leaves wilt quickly. Adding them to the pan separately lets the stems retain some bite and keeps the leaves from getting mushy. Swiss chard is most widely available in the warmer months, although availability may vary by store and season. Use both the stems and leaves if possible; cut thick stems a little smaller so they cook evenly.
Can’t find Swiss chard? Rainbow chard works the same way. Bok choy is another option, but it has a milder flavor and needs a short cooking time; keep the stems and leaves separate then, too. Greek yogurt makes a thick sauce, while regular whole-milk yogurt is a little looser. If using the latter, stir in some of the lemon juice first, then add the rest to taste. Fresh mint has the strongest flavor, but finely chopped parsley is a good alternative.
This is a modern vegetable side dish, not a traditional recipe from one specific cuisine. Serve it alongside pan-fried fish, grilled chicken, or a bowl of rice and other vegetables. Add bread and it can also make a light lunch. The sauce can be made ahead and stored covered in the refrigerator; give it a stir before serving. Don’t expect the roasted chickpeas to stay crunchy after storage: for the best texture, serve them straight from the oven.