ABOUT THIS RECIPEA fresh counterpoint to the crispy crust
This is a contemporary side dish with a bright contrast of flavors: savory chicken with a crisp coating, freshened up with lemon and capers. Chicken thigh stays juicier than chicken breast when cooked briefly and stands up well to the direct heat of the pan. Cut the meat into roughly equal pieces so they cook more or less at the same time. Remove any large pieces of fat, but don’t trim away all of it; it adds flavor.
Fine cornmeal makes a thin, crisp crust and gives a different bite from breadcrumbs. Use finely ground cornmeal, not coarse polenta: the latter stays harder and grainier. A thin coating is enough. Shake off any excess cornmeal before adding the chicken to the pan, or the loose flour may burn. Cook the pieces in batches, leaving space between them. If the pan is too crowded, moisture will be released and the chicken will steam rather than the crust browning.
Capers bring saltiness and a slightly floral acidity; lemon zest adds fragrance without extra moisture. A small splash of lemon juice makes the finish fresher, but add it only after the chicken is out of the pan. This helps keep the crust as crisp as possible. Pat the capers dry if they’re very wet. Flat-leaf parsley adds a green, herbaceous note; use the leaves and chop them just before serving so they stay fresh.
Serve the chicken right away, while the crust is still crisp. It goes well with roasted cauliflower, courgette or carrot, and also with a grain salad made with, for example, bulgur or farro. Since the chicken is already salty and tangy, a simple, mildly seasoned side is often enough. If serving it with a salad, keep the dressing light so the lemon and capers don’t get lost.
Cornmeal is naturally gluten-free, but if you have a dietary requirement, always check the packaging for possible cross-contamination. If you don’t have fine cornmeal, you can use rice flour for a similarly thin crust; the flavor and color will be a little different. Cover and refrigerate leftovers within two hours, and eat them within two days. Reheat them in a hot oven or air fryer; the crust will usually soften in the microwave.