ABOUT THIS RECIPEGolden edges, fresh balance
This lunch is all about contrast. The mushrooms turn savoury as they cook and develop a firm, juicy bite; raw cabbage adds crunch. Corn tortillas are soft, with a pronounced corn flavour. The sauce brings everything together: yoghurt adds freshness, tahini brings a nutty, slightly bitter note, and coriander and lime keep everything lively. A little chilli oil adds warmth without overpowering the other flavours.
Mushrooms are made up largely of water. If too many are in the pan at once, the pan cools and they release their moisture before they have a chance to brown. So cook them in small batches in a large, thoroughly heated pan, and give them time to colour. Tear oyster mushrooms into strips; slice chestnut mushrooms. Both work well, and you can combine them too. Use a neutral oil suitable for high-heat cooking.
Corn tortillas are usually smaller and a little sturdier than wheat tortillas. Briefly warm them in a dry frying pan so they become pliable and their aroma comes through more. Then keep them covered with a clean tea towel while you finish the rest. If they’re hard to find, small wheat tortillas are a practical substitute, though the corn flavour will be different. You can leave out the tahini, but the sauce will be less creamy and nutty; if you do, stir a little extra yoghurt and lime juice together.
Cabbage and mushrooms are widely available, so this dish works in any season. In autumn, a variety of local mushrooms are often easier to find, but regular chestnut mushrooms work all year round. Serve the tortillas straight away, while the mushrooms are warm and the cabbage still crisp. For a lunch with more people, put the components on the table separately so everyone can fill their own tortillas. Store any leftover mushrooms and sauce separately, covered in the fridge, and eat within two days; heat the mushrooms thoroughly and fill the tortillas just before eating.