ABOUT THIS RECIPECorn in two textures
In this lunch dish, corn plays two different roles. Some goes into the batter, making the flatbread soft and lightly sweet; the rest is fried separately until the kernels turn golden brown in places. That way, you taste corn in the base and get a distinct bite from the topping, too. The feta-yogurt spread is salty and creamy, while cucumber, lemon, parsley and dill keep everything fresh. A few drops of chili oil add a little heat to the sweet, fresh flavors without overpowering them.
The batter is thicker than that of a regular thin crêpe, but it should still be easy to spread with the back of a spoon. Blending some of the corn helps bind the batter and gives it an even corn flavor. Let the pan get good and hot and use a thin layer of oil: this helps the edges turn crisp while the middle cooks through. If the batter is so stiff that you can’t spread it, stir in a tablespoon of water at a time. Don’t make the flatbreads too thick; otherwise, they may brown before the inside is cooked.
Fresh corn is a good choice in late summer, when ears of corn are often available. Outside the season, thawed frozen kernels work just fine. If you use canned corn, drain it well and pat the kernels dry before toasting them; excess moisture slows browning. The kernels for the batter don’t need to be toasted first. For the topping, a hot, dry pan is best, so they develop some color without turning soft as they cook.
Whip the feta with yogurt until smooth and spreadable. An immersion blender gives the smoothest result; you can also mash the feta with a fork, though the spread will be a little coarser. If your feta is very salty, use a little more yogurt and taste before adding extra salt. Dill has a distinct, fresh flavor, but if you don’t have any, you can make up the amount with parsley. Dice the cucumber finely so it stays evenly distributed over the flatbreads.
Serve the flatbreads as soon as you’ve topped them: the edges will still be crisp, and the cool salad makes a pleasing contrast with the warm base. Put extra chili oil on the table so everyone can choose how much they want. You can prepare the components ahead of time, but keep the salad separate from the flatbreads and top them just before eating; that way, moisture from the cucumber won’t soak into the base.