ABOUT THIS RECIPEBright acidity and a satisfying noodle bite
Soba are Japanese noodles in which buckwheat plays an important role. Their color and flavor vary by type: some soba are made mostly of buckwheat, while others also contain wheat flour and are therefore a little more flexible. Check the package and follow the stated cooking time; buckwheat noodles can become too soft quickly. A firm bite is important for this salad, because the noodles are mixed with the dressing and other ingredients after cooking.
Rinsing with cold water does more than simply cool the noodles. It removes loose starch from the surface, so the soba are less likely to stick together and retain their bite better. Gently loosen the noodles with your hands as you rinse them, then drain them well. A colander full of watery noodles will dilute the dressing, making the ponzu and yuzu less pronounced.
Ponzu brings together salt and citrus acidity; yuzu adds a distinctive, aromatic citrus fragrance. Bottled yuzu juice is often the most practical choice, since fresh yuzu is not available everywhere. If you use only lemon, the dressing will taste fresher and more direct. So taste it before adding extra juice. A little sesame oil rounds out the acidity, but keep the amount modest so the dressing stays light.
Edamame adds tender green beans alongside the cool cucumber and firm noodles. Frozen edamame is handy for this: cook the beans according to the package and let them cool. Thin strips of nori add a savory, briny flavor. Add the nori just before serving; it quickly loses its light, crisp texture in the dressing. Sesame seeds bring a roasted, nutty note.
The crispy buckwheat completes the contrast in textures. Fry the groats gently in a thin layer of oil, stirring constantly so they turn golden without burning. Drain and cool them before scattering over the salad. Serve the salad as a light meal or as a side dish with, for example, grilled tofu or fish. You can prepare the components ahead of time, but store the noodles, dressing and crispy toppings separately. Refrigerate prepared ingredients promptly and preferably eat the salad the same day; the noodles absorb the dressing as they sit and become softer.