Golden-brown roasted smashed potatoes make a crisp base for tender pan-fried cod. The green olive salsa with parsley, capers and lemon adds saltiness, freshness and herbal notes, and settles between the potatoes.
This dish is all about three distinct textures: potatoes with a crisp exterior and soft centre, fish that flakes into large pieces, and a coarsely chopped salsa with a little bite. Small, waxy potatoes work well here because they hold their shape after boiling when you press them flat. If you’re using larger potatoes, cut them into pieces after cooking and gently press them down; an uneven shape creates more edges that can brown in the oven.
Boil the potatoes until tender first, then let them steam-dry briefly. This gets rid of excess moisture on the surface so they can roast in the oven rather than steam. Press them flat on an oiled baking sheet with the bottom of a glass or a potato masher, without breaking them apart completely. Leave some space between the pieces and don’t keep turning them while they roast: direct contact with the hot tray helps the undersides crisp up. A metal baking sheet generally gives you more browning than a thick roasting dish.
The salsa is deliberately chunky, not blended until smooth. Green olives bring saltiness and savouriness; capers and lemon cut through that intensity, while parsley adds a fresh, green flavour. Taste the salsa before adding extra salt, as the saltiness of olives and capers can vary. If you’re using capers in brine, drain them first. You can give them a quick rinse if they taste very salty. No green olives on hand? Black olives work too, but give a milder, less fresh flavour.
Cook the cod only when the potatoes are nearly ready, so the fish reaches the table warm and juicy. Pat the fillets dry and cook them in a hot frying pan with a thin layer of oil; this colours the surface without the fish needing to cook for long. The exact cooking time depends on the thickness. Take the fillets off the heat as soon as they turn opaque and flake easily. You can swap the cod for another firm white fish, such as pollock, but adjust the cooking time to suit its thickness.
Spoon the salsa over the potatoes and fish just before serving, so the crispy edges don’t soften unnecessarily. Put the rest on the table separately. If you like, serve with a simple green salad or briefly blanched green beans; they don’t add a heavy sauce and go well with lemon and olives. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and reheat the fish and potatoes thoroughly; the potatoes will lose some of their crispness.
Preheat the oven to 220 °C (200 °C fan). Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Cook the potatoes for 15–20 minutes, until tender; a knife should slide into them easily. Drain and leave to steam-dry for 5 minutes.
Place the potatoes on a baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tbsp olive oil and gently press them flat with the bottom of a glass or a potato masher to about 2 cm thick. Sprinkle with half the salt and roast for 25–30 minutes, until the edges are deep golden-brown and crisp.
Meanwhile, roughly chop the olives, parsley and capers. Mix with the lemon zest, 2 tbsp lemon juice and 2 tbsp olive oil. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed.
Pat the cod dry and season both sides with the remaining salt and some black pepper. Heat the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Cook the fillets for about 3–4 minutes per side, depending on their thickness, until opaque and easy to flake.
Divide the crispy potatoes between plates and add the cod. Spoon the olive salsa over the top just before serving.
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