Pork shoulder cooks slowly with achiote and citrus until the meat falls apart. Red onion with lime adds a tangy, fresh contrast; warm corn tortillas make it a hearty main course.
Cochinita pibil is part of the cuisine of Yucatán, in southeastern Mexico. Its distinctive flavor comes from achiote: a paste made with the red-orange seeds of the annatto tree, usually blended with spices and something acidic. Achiote gives the meat its color and an earthy, slightly peppery flavor, but it is not meant to be a hot chili sauce. Ready-made achiote paste is your best bet; whole annatto seeds are not a like-for-like substitute, as they need to be prepared differently.
Sour orange is used in the marinade. It is not always easy to find outside Mexico. A mixture of orange juice and lime juice comes close to the combination of fruitiness and acidity. The acidity gives the marinade brightness, but it does not make the meat tender on its own: that takes time and slow, even cooking. Marinate the pork covered in the refrigerator, and don’t bring it to room temperature hours ahead of time.
The name pibil refers to cooking in an underground oven, a traditional technique in the region. At home, an oven and a tightly covered roasting pan offer a practical approximation, though it is not the same cooking method. Banana leaves enclose the meat and help keep the juices and aromatic steam inside the parcel. The leaves are neither edible nor intended to be part of the dish. Thaw frozen leaves gently and warm them briefly to make them more pliable; cover any tears with overlapping pieces.
Pork shoulder is well suited to this long cooking method because its connective tissue softens with enough time. Cut the meat into large pieces so the marinade can coat it all over and it cooks evenly. After a few hours, a fork should pull it apart easily. If it is still firm, give it more time and check that there is still some liquid in the pan. Achiote can give the meat a strong color, so focus on its texture, not just its appearance.
The pickled red onion adds freshness and crunch alongside the soft, rich meat. Let the onion sit with lime juice and salt for at least half an hour, so it softens a little but still has some bite. Serve the meat with warm corn tortillas, spooning some of the cooking juices over it too. An extra bowl of onion is handy at the table. Cool leftovers quickly, store covered in the refrigerator and reheat thoroughly within three days; add a little cooking liquid when reheating to keep the meat juicy.
Whisk the achiote paste with the orange juice and lime juice until smooth. Stir in the garlic, cumin, oregano, black pepper and 2 teaspoons of salt.
Toss the pork with the marinade. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 8 to 12 hours.
Mix the red onion with the habanero, lime juice and 1 teaspoon of salt. Let stand for at least 30 minutes, tossing occasionally.
Preheat the oven to 150 °C. Briefly warm the banana leaves in a dry frying pan or over a gas flame until pliable. Line a roasting pan with overlapping leaves, leaving enough hanging over the edges to cover the meat later.
Put the meat and all the marinade in the pan. Fold the leaves over it and cover the pan tightly with the lid. Cook in the oven for 4 to 4½ hours, until the meat falls apart easily when pulled with a fork. If it is still firm, cook it longer and check that the pan is not dry.
Pull the meat apart with two forks and mix it with the cooking juices. Warm the corn tortillas one at a time in a dry frying pan and keep them warm under a clean tea towel.
Serve the meat with the pickled red onion and warm tortillas.
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