ABOUT THIS RECIPEThe art of a smooth spoonful
Budino is the Italian word for pudding, but the name doesn’t refer to one particular recipe or texture. This version is a spoonable chocolate dessert thickened on the stovetop with cornstarch. The result is different from an airy mousse: dense, smooth and rich, with no eggs or oven required. The base is simple, allowing the quality of the chocolate to come through. Choose a dark chocolate you enjoy eating, preferably around 60 to 70 percent cocoa; a much more bitter variety can make the pudding taste firmer and less sweet.
Espresso is used here not to make a pronounced coffee pudding, but to bring out the richness of the chocolate. A small amount of strong coffee adds depth without overpowering the chocolate. Use freshly made espresso or a small amount of strong filter coffee. Instant coffee works too: first stir it until smooth with a tablespoon of hot water, then measure out the amount you need. Cocoa powder adds a dry, intense chocolate note; sugar rounds off the bitterness. The pinch of salt is subtle, but helps keep the flavours bright.
Cornstarch only thickens properly once the mixture gets hot. So first mix it with the sugar and cocoa, then whisk in cold milk until there are no dry lumps. Stirring regularly as it heats is important, especially along the bottom and into the corners of the pan, where the pudding can catch most easily. Once it starts to thicken, let it simmer gently for a short time so the thickener can fully take effect. Then take the pan off the heat before adding the chocolate; it melts in the residual heat and gives the pudding a smooth, glossy texture.
Let the budino set completely in small glasses or bowls. Pressing a piece of parchment directly onto the surface prevents a skin from forming as it cools; baking parchment works too. Allow at least three hours in the fridge. The pudding can be covered and refrigerated for up to three days. It’s best to whip the cream, unsweetened, just before serving, so its fresh milky flavour makes a gentle contrast with the cocoa. Serve small portions after a meal or with some fresh fruit, such as raspberries, if you’d like something bright alongside.