Chilled silken tofu with tomato dashi and crispy soba

Umami from kombu and ripe tomato

This is a modern Japanese small dish, not a classic recipe with one set combination of ingredients. The base is hiyayakko: chilled silken tofu with seasonings, often served as a simple side dish. Here, the tofu is paired with a light, savory broth and a crispy topping, so a few carefully chosen textures do the work. The tofu is mild and almost pudding-soft; the tomato dashi brings salty umami and a light, fruity acidity. Soba adds toasted, nutty notes once the cooked noodles are fried until crispy.

Kombu provides the base for the dashi. Soaking the seaweed in cold water first and then gently heating the water allows the flavor to emerge gradually. Don’t let the kombu boil vigorously: this can make the broth cloudy and give it a slimy texture. Ripe tomatoes add glutamates and freshness, making the broth light but flavorful even without fish. Ripe tomatoes are often more aromatic in late summer; outside the season, a firm, well-ripened tomato also works, though the flavor may be less pronounced.

Silken tofu is delicate, so remove it carefully from the package and let it drain well. A wide spoon helps when dividing it among bowls. Don’t cut the tofu too small: larger pieces hold their shape better and give the broth a soft surface to cling to. Shiso has its own herby, slightly minty flavor. If you can’t find it, use a little basil; it’s not an exact substitute, but it does add a fresh, herbal note. Spring onion provides a sharper, oniony contrast.

The soba needs to be rinsed well and dried after cooking before it goes into the pan. This removes excess starch and helps the individual strands fry until crispy instead of clumping together. Fry in small batches and give the strands time to color. If you’re using soba made mostly from buckwheat, it may break more easily, so handle the cooled noodles gently. If soba isn’t available, thin wheat noodles will work, but they won’t have the nutty flavor of buckwheat.

Pour the cold broth over the tofu at the table so the soba stays crispy. Serve the remaining broth alongside for anyone who wants to add more. This works as a light lunch or as part of a meal with rice and, for example, cucumber or blanched green vegetables. Store the tofu, broth and crispy noodles separately, covered, in the refrigerator and use within two days; keep the fried soba dry and add it just before eating. Warm the broth only if you don’t want to serve the tofu cold.