ABOUT THIS RECIPECrisp with a tender edge
Chilaquiles are all about the contrast between corn and salsa. The tortilla wedges are fried until crisp first, then tossed with the sauce at the very end. That way, the edges soak up a little salsa while the middle still has some bite. Leave them in the pan too long and they’ll turn soft and heavy. So serve them as soon as you’ve tossed the tortillas with the warm salsa.
Tomatillos give salsa verde a distinctly fresh, tangy flavor. They’re green and firm, and wrapped in a papery husk; remove it and rinse off the sticky fruit. Fresh tomatillos aren’t available everywhere in the Netherlands. Canned tomatillos are a practical substitute: drain them well and bear in mind that they’re already softer. Green jalapeño adds mild to moderate heat; remove the seeds and ribs for a milder salsa, or use just part of the pepper.
Charring the tomatillos, onion, and jalapeño in a dry skillet gives them dark spots and makes the salsa taste fuller. Then blend them with cilantro, garlic, lime juice, and a little salt. Cook the sauce briefly in the pan to warm it through and mellow its raw flavor a little. Blend the cilantro and lime in with the other ingredients, but add extra lime juice only after tasting. Tomatillos vary in tartness.
Corn tortillas are important here for their hearty, toasted corn flavor. Cut them into wedges and fry them in a shallow layer of oil until golden brown; work in batches so the pan doesn’t get overcrowded. Ready-made corn chips are quicker, but they soften faster and absorb the sauce differently. A fried egg with a soft yolk makes the dish richer. Queso fresco offers a mild, crumbly contrast; crumbled feta works too, but use a little less salt.
Serve the chilaquiles right away with crema, cheese, and eggs. Sour cream loosened with a small splash of water works as a substitute for Mexican crema. You can also put extra salsa and lime on the table so everyone can adjust the freshness and heat to their liking. This is a complete lunch or brunch on its own; a simple radish and cucumber salad makes a fresh side if you’d like something cool alongside the warm skillet.