ABOUT THIS RECIPEThe art of just enough sauce
Chilaquiles are all about the contrast between corn tortillas and salsa. The tortillas soak up some of the sauce, but they shouldn’t turn into a soft mass: some of the edges can stay crisp. That’s why the fried tortilla pieces are added to the sauce at the very last moment. Get the plates and toppings ready beforehand, so you can serve as soon as everything is tossed together.
The red sauce gets its flavor from tomatoes, onion and garlic, charred in a hot pan. Roasting them adds depth, even when you’re using tomatoes outside their summer season. Dried guajillo brings a mild, fruity chili warmth. Remove the stem and seeds, then soften the chili in hot water before blending it; this helps it mix evenly into the sauce. For more heat, add a small dried chile de árbol. It’s hotter, so start with a little.
Corn tortillas matter more here than a neutral substitute: they have a firm bite and a distinctive corn flavor. Use day-old tortillas if possible, or leave fresh tortillas to dry out briefly after cutting them, so they’re less likely to go soft while frying. Fry them in batches in hot oil and drain them well. For a lighter, oven-baked version, brush the pieces with oil and bake them on a baking sheet until golden brown; the texture is a little different, but they still hold up well in the sauce.
Black beans make the dish more filling and go well with the chili’s earthy flavor. Canned beans are convenient: rinse them and warm them in the sauce. Avocado mellows the heat, cilantro adds a fresh, green contrast, and a lime wedge brings extra acidity to the table. A fried egg with a still-soft yolk completes the dish; cook the egg separately so the tortillas don’t need to stay in the pan any longer.
Serve chilaquiles straight from the pan, preferably on warm plates. You can make the sauce and beans ahead and store them covered in the refrigerator; heat them through before using. Keep the tortilla pieces separate and toss them with the sauce just before eating. Once assembled, a serving will soften in storage, so it’s best to make only as much as you’re serving right away.