ABOUT THIS RECIPEA Crispy Crust, a Fresh Sauce and a Little Tang
The heart of this dish is the contrast between rice with a crispy underside and chickpeas that are firm and well seasoned on the outside. Cumin adds warm, earthy notes; paprika brings a mild smoky flavor and color. The green sauce balances those flavors with lemon and fresh herbs. Yogurt softens the combination, while the pickled red onion adds a quick, fresh hit of acidity.
Cold cooked rice works better here than freshly cooked rice: the grains are drier and less likely to stick together in the pan. Ideally, use rice that was cooled quickly after cooking and stored in the refrigerator. To do that, spread freshly cooked rice on a shallow tray, let the steam escape briefly, then chill it promptly. Cook the rice thoroughly and serve it right away; don't leave cooked rice at room temperature for a long time.
A large frying pan is important for getting a crispy layer. Fry the rice in batches if the pan would otherwise be too full. Press the rice down lightly and leave it undisturbed for a few minutes: stirring constantly makes it hard to form a crust. Once the underside is golden brown, turn the rice over in large pieces. A nonstick pan makes this easier, but a well-oiled cast-iron pan works too. Fry the chickpeas separately on a hot baking sheet; pat them thoroughly dry first so they fry up firm rather than steam.
The herb oil is intentionally simple: coriander, parsley, olive oil and lemon are blended together. Use the herb stems too; they add flavor and blend finely. Don't have any coriander? Replace it with extra parsley and, if you like, a few mint leaves. For a creamier sauce, stir the herb oil into the yogurt just before serving, but serving them separately keeps the colors bright.
Serve the rice and chickpeas while they're hot, with the yogurt, herb oil and drained red onion alongside or on top. A simple cucumber and tomato salad goes well if you'd like a little more freshness. Store any leftover components separately, covered, in the refrigerator; reheat the rice and chickpeas thoroughly in a pan. The rice will lose some of its crispy crust, so add the sauce and onion only after reheating.