Deeply browned chestnut mushrooms get a quick splash of dry sherry, butter and thyme. Crisp sourdough crumbs with garlic and parsley make a fresh, crunchy contrast.
Chestnut mushrooms are firmer and a little earthier in flavour than white mushrooms, but they behave the same way in the pan. They’re generally available all year round. Choose mushrooms that feel dry and firm; wipe off any visible dirt with kitchen paper or a soft brush. Avoiding a rinse under the tap helps prevent extra moisture in the pan, though a quick rinse followed by thorough drying is fine if needed.
The most important step is to cook them in a large, hot frying pan. Mushrooms release moisture; if they’re crowded together, they’ll steam before they develop browned edges. So cook them in two batches, letting each batch sit for a little while before stirring. Wait until most of the moisture has evaporated and the mushrooms have browned. This browning adds depth of flavour and lays the foundation for the quick sherry sauce.
Dry sherry brings a nutty, slightly savoury flavour. Don’t use sweet sherry: it can quickly make the dish sticky. Dry vermouth or dry white wine can be used instead, though the aroma will change. Pour the sherry into the pan and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits. Let the liquid reduce before adding the butter; this keeps the sauce concentrated rather than watery.
The garlic crumbs are cooked separately so they stay crisp when served. Sourdough bread gives them a firm texture and a slight tang, but day-old farmhouse bread works too. Grind or crumble it coarsely: small crumbs brown quickly and can become dry. Add the garlic towards the end, as it can burn before the bread turns golden. Stir in the parsley after cooking for a fresh, green flavour.
Serve the mushrooms straight away, while the crumbs are still crunchy, for example alongside roast chicken, an omelette or a hearty bean salad. They also make a light lunch on toasted bread. Store any leftovers covered in the fridge and use within three days; it’s best to store the crumbs separately so they don’t go soft. Reheat the mushrooms gently in a pan and scatter the crumbs over just before serving.
Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Fry the sourdough crumbs for 4–5 minutes, stirring regularly, until golden brown and crisp.
Add half the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Transfer the crumbs from the pan, mix with a pinch of the salt and leave to cool on a plate.
Heat the remaining olive oil in the same pan over high heat. Cook the mushrooms in two batches, without overcrowding the pan. Leave them undisturbed for a few minutes, then stir occasionally; cook each batch until the released moisture has evaporated and the mushrooms are deeply browned.
Return all the mushrooms to the pan. Add the thyme and remaining garlic and cook for 30 seconds.
Pour in the sherry and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits. Reduce for 1–2 minutes, stir in the butter and season with the remaining salt and the black pepper.
Stir the parsley through the mushrooms. Transfer to a serving dish and scatter the garlic crumbs over just before serving.
Main courseSweet corn, a splash of cream and a squeeze of lime make a hearty soup with both tender and whole kernels. Crispy tortilla strips, cilantro and chili oil bring freshness, heat and crunch to every bowl.
Main courseA hearty bowl of tender pearl barley, sweet cumin-roasted carrots and golden-brown chickpeas. The fresh sauce of herbs, lemon and tahini brings it all together, while toasted sesame adds a little crunch.
Main courseGolden brown and crisp at the edges, soft inside: these courgette and corn fritters get a fresh lift from lime yogurt and a little heat from chili oil. Serve them as a main course with a crunchy salad.