ABOUT THIS RECIPEGentle steaming for a smooth custard
Chawanmushi is a savory Japanese custard made with egg and dashi. Its flavor is mild and savory, not strongly eggy: dashi adds umami, while shrimp bring a light sweetness and shiitake add an earthy note. The ingredients are steamed in small cups, so each serving has its own filling. The exact ingredients vary; shrimp and shiitake are a familiar combination, but other suitable ingredients are also used.
The ratio of egg to broth determines the texture. Two eggs yield about 100 milliliters of beaten egg; with 300 milliliters of dashi, the custard is soft and spoonable. More egg makes it firmer, while less egg gives a more delicate result. Use dashi that has cooled before mixing it with the egg: warm broth can partially cook the egg. A fine sieve removes strands of egg white from the mixture and helps the finished custard turn out evenly smooth.
Gentle steam is just as important as the ratio. If the water boils vigorously, the custard gets too hot and can turn grainy or develop small holes. So let the water simmer gently and keep the lid on the pan. A steamer basket or rack keeps the cups above the water; aluminum foil over the cups protects them from condensation dripping in. Since cups and pans vary, doneness matters more than an exact number of minutes: the custard should be just set and still tremble slightly in the center.
Use peeled raw shrimp if possible, so they cook through as they steam. Small dried shiitake can also be used, but soak them fully in hot water first and slice them thinly; fresh shiitake are ready to use as they are. No dashi on hand? Good instant dashi is a practical option. The flavor will be a little different, but it still provides the savory base. Mirin adds subtle sweetness; leave it out if you don't have any, and season the custard carefully with a little extra salt.
Serve the cups warm as a starter, for example before a rice dish or a meal with vegetables and fish. Chawanmushi is at its best shortly after steaming, when the texture is still silky smooth. Quickly cover and refrigerate leftovers, and eat them within two days; reheat them gently until piping hot throughout, preferably in a steamer basket. The custard may firm up a little after chilling, so don't expect exactly the same texture as when freshly made.