ABOUT THIS RECIPESmoky cabbage, bright citrus
Pointed cabbage is mild and sturdy enough to cook in wedges without falling apart straight away. Its slightly sweet flavour gains depth when the cut sides come into direct contact with a hot pan. This gives them dark, roasted edges without making the whole cabbage limp. Pointed cabbage is often readily available in the colder months; oranges offer a bright, juicy contrast at just that time of year. Choose a compact cabbage with fresh, undamaged leaves.
Tahini makes the dressing full-bodied and creamy, but it can quickly become thick when combined with citrus. So first stir the orange juice, lemon and salt into the tahini, then add water a little at a time until the sauce runs off a spoon. The orange brings fruity sweetness, while the lemon sharpens the flavour. Taste before adding extra salt: tahini varies from brand to brand in flavour and sometimes in how firm the paste is, too.
For a tender centre alongside charred edges, patience matters more than turning up the heat. Let the cabbage wedges colour gently first, then give them time to cook through with a small splash of water and the lid on the pan. A heavy frying pan holds the heat well; with a lighter pan, you may need to cook the cabbage in more batches. Turn on the extractor fan, as cooking at a high heat can produce some smoke.
Pumpkin seeds add a dry, crunchy bite that contrasts nicely with the soft cabbage and smooth sauce. Toast them briefly in a dry frying pan and remove them as soon as they smell fragrant and start to colour in places. Mint makes everything taste fresh. No fresh mint to hand? Use a smaller amount of finely chopped parsley instead. For a nut-free version, you can leave out the seeds, though the dish will lose some crunch; crispy fried breadcrumbs can make up for it in part.
Serve the cabbage as a side with grains such as bulgur or rice, or alongside warm pulses. The citrus tahini dressing also goes well with grilled fish. Add the sauce and toppings just before serving so the seeds stay crunchy and the charred surfaces remain visible. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and reheat thoroughly later; if possible, store the sauce and cabbage separately.