ABOUT THIS RECIPEA Hot Pan, a Fresh Spoonful of Sauce
Oyster mushrooms have broad, fan-shaped caps and soft stems that release moisture as they cook. Tear them into sturdy strips: they make more contact with the pan than small pieces while still keeping some bite. Cook them in a large, well-heated frying pan, and divide them into two batches if the pan isn’t big enough. A crowded pan cools down quickly, so the mushrooms are more likely to steam than brown. Let them sit undisturbed at first, and turn them only once the underside has coloured.
The salsa verde here isn’t a thick pesto, but a loose, fresh sauce. Finely chopped parsley gives it a green, herbaceous base; capers add saltiness and a slightly sharp, savoury note. Lemon brightens everything, while olive oil brings the flavours together and makes the sauce loose enough to run between the mushrooms. Chop the ingredients with a knife instead of blending them smooth: this keeps the sauce fresh in texture and gives each bite little pieces of herbs and capers. Taste before serving, as capers vary in saltiness.
The combination works because of the contrast. Oyster mushrooms have a savoury flavour of their own, which comes through even more with browned edges. The lemon and parsley cut through with freshness, while the oil keeps the sauce from tasting sharp or watery. A small clove of garlic adds depth, but keep the amount modest so it doesn’t overpower the mushrooms. If you don’t have capers, use finely chopped green olives and add the lemon gradually; the sauce will have a slightly rounder, less distinctly tart flavour.
Oyster mushrooms are generally available year-round. Choose ones that feel firm and aren’t wet or slimy. Brush off any loose dirt with kitchen paper or a soft brush; washing usually isn’t necessary, as wet mushrooms are harder to brown. A wide pan with a heavy base works best. After cooking, let the mushrooms drain briefly on a plate, without piling them on top of each other, so the browned edges are less likely to soften.
Serve them warm as a side dish with fried potatoes, white beans or grilled vegetables. The salsa verde can be made ahead and kept covered in the fridge; stir it again before using. The mushrooms are best straight from the pan. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and heat them through in a hot pan the next day; the edges may be less crisp. Spoon the sauce over the mushrooms just before serving to keep the herbs fresh.