Charred Okra with Sumac Onions and Lemon Yogurt Sauce

Smoky Pods, Fresh Contrasts

Okra has a distinctive green flavor and a firm bite when the pods are roasted at a high temperature. The surface develops brown blisters and lightly toasted edges, adding more depth than gentle cooking would. Moisture is the enemy here: wet pods are more likely to steam than brown. Pat them thoroughly dry and spread them out on the baking sheet so the hot air can circulate around them. Trim only the dry stem and leave the pod itself whole; otherwise, more mucilage may be released as it cooks.

Fresh okra is easiest to find in the Netherlands during the warmer months, especially at greengrocers and markets with a wide selection. Choose firm, undamaged pods of roughly equal size so they cook more evenly. Smaller ones are usually a little more tender, but larger ones work too as long as they don't feel dried out or tough. Frozen okra can be used as an alternative, but thaw it completely and pat it especially carefully dry. The color and texture may be less even as a result.

The sumac onions bring just the kind of acidity roasted vegetables need. Sumac tastes fresh and citrusy without making the whole dish taste only of lemon. Letting the thinly sliced red onion sit briefly with sumac and lemon juice softens it a little while keeping it crisp. Slice the onion as thinly as possible with a sharp knife; thick pieces retain more bite and stand out more between the soft sauce and warm okra.

Full-fat yogurt gives the sauce body, while lemon and a little garlic keep the flavor bright. Use Greek yogurt if you want a thick sauce, or stir in a teaspoon of water if it's difficult to spread. Flatbread crumbs add a dry, crispy contrast. Toast the bread until golden brown and crumble it only after it has cooled; this helps it stay crisp longer. Stale flatbread is handy for this, but fresh bread works too.

Serve the components together soon after preparing them, so the okra stays warm and the bread crumbs keep their crunch. The platter goes well with grilled eggplant, lentils, or spiced chicken, but with extra flatbread it can also make a light lunch. If you want to prepare ahead, serve the sauce and onion separately. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and briefly reheat the okra in a hot oven before serving; add the bread crumbs at the last moment.