Crisp little gem lettuce develops dark, smoky sear marks in a hot pan. Lemon and anchovy make the dressing fresh and savory, while toasted rye crumbs add a hearty crunch.
Little gem is sturdy enough to cook briefly without going limp straight away. The cut sides turn dark and take on a lightly bitter, toasted flavor, while the hearts stay cool and crisp. That contrast is exactly what you want: cook the lettuce briefly in a properly hot pan. A pan that isn’t hot enough will make the heads release moisture before they brown. Work in batches if needed, so the cut sides stay in contact with the pan.
Anchovy adds saltiness and umami to the dressing, but it doesn’t need to stand out as distinct fish fillets. Mash the fillets with the mustard and lemon juice before whisking in the oil; this helps distribute them evenly. Taste only after that, and add salt only if needed. The amount of lemon balances the rich oil and savory anchovy. Add a spoonful of water if the dressing is too thick to drizzle over the lettuce.
Rye bread makes the topping nuttier and earthier than regular bread croutons. Crumble it coarsely: small crumbs turn hard quickly and brown sooner, while larger pieces stay crisp with a bit of bite. Stale bread works perfectly for this. No rye bread on hand? Use sturdy sourdough bread; the flavor will be milder, but the crisp texture will remain. Toast the crumbs separately and keep them dry until serving, so they don’t soften from the dressing.
Little gem is generally available year-round; choose heads with fresh, firm leaves and a base that hasn’t dried out. Rinse them if needed and dry them thoroughly, since wet lettuce doesn’t sear as well. Serve this dish straight away as a side with pan-fried fish, chicken or a meal with legumes. For a vegetarian version, replace the anchovy with finely chopped capers and a little miso; taste the dressing carefully, since miso is salty too. Add the dressing and crumbs at the table if you want to keep the lettuce crisp for as long as possible.
To make the dressing, mash the anchovy fillets with a fork in a small bowl. Stir in the lemon juice and mustard, then gradually whisk in the 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Stir in the water and set aside.
Crumble the rye bread coarsely. Heat 1 teaspoon olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat and cook the crumbs for 3–4 minutes, tossing regularly, until dry and crisp. Transfer them to a plate.
Cut the little gem heads in half lengthwise. Pat the cut sides dry and grind over some black pepper. Heat the remaining teaspoon of olive oil in the same pan over high heat.
Place the lettuce halves cut-side down in the pan. Cook for 1–2 minutes without moving them, until the cut sides are dark brown and charred. Cook in batches if needed; don’t turn them over.
Arrange the little gem cut-side up on a platter. Spoon over the dressing and scatter the rye crumbs on top. Taste and add a little salt only if needed. Serve straight away.
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