Sweet, tender leeks with dark, roasted edges are balanced by bright lemon-tahini yogurt and crunchy buckwheat. A distinctive side dish alongside grains, legumes or pan-fried fish.
Leeks turn soft and mild as they cook, but at a high temperature they can also develop a deep, roasted flavor. The dark cut sides give this dish its character; the inside should be soft, not dry or charred through. Thick leeks are handy because the halves hold their shape and are easy to serve after roasting. Rinse them carefully: grit often gets between the layers of green leaves. Leave a small piece of the root attached so the layers stay together while you clean and cook them.
This combination is all about contrast. Tahini makes the yogurt richer and lightly nutty, while lemon juice keeps the sauce bright and fresh. Add the water gradually: tahini first thickens, then turns smooth and spoonable again. Taste the sauce before serving it with the leeks; lemons vary in juiciness, and tahini can be quite powerful on its own. The buckwheat adds a dry, crunchy bite. Toast the groats without oil and keep an eye on them: once they smell fragrant and start to turn lightly golden, they’re ready.
Leeks are widely available in the Netherlands from autumn through spring, although you can find them in shops all year round. Choose firm ones with fresh leaves and no limp or damaged spots. If you can’t find thick leeks, use more thin ones and keep a close eye on them as they roast; they soften sooner. No buckwheat on hand? Toasted pumpkin seeds add crunch too, but have a different, more pronounced nutty flavor. For a milder sauce, replace some of the tahini with extra yogurt.
Serve the leeks warm or at room temperature so the sauce stays creamy and the roasted flavor comes through. They go well with bulgur, rice or lentils, and also pair well with pan-fried fish. If possible, add the sauce and buckwheat to the leeks just before serving so the topping stays crisp. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and eat them within two days. Reheat the leeks gently in an oven or frying pan; keep the sauce separate and add it afterward. You can briefly toast the buckwheat again if it has softened.
Preheat the oven to 240 °C (220 °C fan). Put a sturdy baking sheet in the oven while it heats.
Trim the root ends and tough dark green leaves from the leeks. Halve them lengthwise, leaving a small piece of root attached to hold the halves together, and rinse away any grit between the layers. Pat dry thoroughly.
Mix the olive oil with the salt and brush it over the cut sides of the leeks. Place the leeks cut-side down on the hot baking sheet. Roast for 12 minutes, turn the halves over and roast for another 8–12 minutes, until the centers are soft and the cut sides are dark.
Meanwhile, toast the buckwheat groats in a dry frying pan over medium heat for 3–5 minutes. Shake the pan regularly; take them out as soon as they smell fragrant and turn lightly golden.
Warm the neutral oil with the chili flakes in a small saucepan over low heat for 1–2 minutes. Don’t let the oil smoke, and turn off the heat as soon as the chili flakes smell fragrant.
Stir together the yogurt, tahini, lemon zest and 1½ tbsp lemon juice. Add the water a little at a time until the sauce is smooth and spoonable. Season with salt, black pepper and, if needed, extra lemon juice.
Spoon the lemon-tahini yogurt onto a serving platter and arrange the warm leeks on top. Drizzle with chili oil and scatter over the toasted buckwheat. Serve immediately.
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