ABOUT THIS RECIPESmoke, tang and a crispy bite
This modern vegetable dish is all about contrast. Green peppers turn tender and lightly smoky when their skins blister over high heat; toasted corn adds sweetness and a satisfying bite. Yogurt with lemon and sumac keeps everything fresh. Sumac has a pleasantly tangy, fruity flavor and gives the sauce extra depth without needing much lemon juice. Coriander adds a fresh, herby note.
Roast the peppers hot and fast, so the skins darken before the flesh completely collapses. You can do this under a hot oven grill or in a well-preheated cast-iron pan. Turn them regularly with tongs so the skins blister all over. A short rest under a lid or in a covered bowl makes the loose skins easier to remove. You don’t need to remove every blackened spot: any that remain add to the smoky flavor.
The corn needs to be dry on the outside. Pat the kernels thoroughly dry before adding them to the hot frying pan; otherwise, they’ll steam rather than brown. Don’t stir constantly, so they stay in contact with the pan and develop golden-brown edges here and there. Fresh corn is especially easy to find in summer. Out of season, thawed frozen kernels are convenient; drained canned corn works too, but pat it especially carefully dry.
Use firm green peppers, such as regular green bell peppers or larger pointed peppers. Pointed peppers are often a little sweeter and thinner, so they cook faster. If you’d rather not use coriander, flat-leaf parsley makes a fresh substitute, though it changes the herbal flavor. Greek yogurt makes a thick sauce; stir in a teaspoon of water if you’d prefer it a little looser. Taste the yogurt mixture and add the lemon juice gradually: sumac can vary in acidity.
Serve the peppers and corn at room temperature or warm, with the yogurt sauce drizzled over them or served alongside so the kernels stay crisp. The dish goes well with grilled meat, fish or legumes, and can also be part of a spread of several vegetable dishes. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and, ideally, keep the sauce separate. The peppers and corn lose their crispness in storage; warm them gently in a pan and add the cold sauce and coriander just before serving.