Charred green peppers with herbed yogurt and crispy corn

Smoke, tang and a crisp bite

Green peppers have a slightly firmer, less sweet character than red peppers. That makes them well suited to direct heat: under a hot grill, the skin blisters and darkens, taking on a smoky aroma as the flesh softens. Cover the peppers and let them rest after grilling. The steam loosens the skin and gives the flesh time to finish cooking. A few bits of skin left behind are no problem; they add a little extra smokiness. Just make sure the peppers are charred all over, or the skin may be hard to remove in places.

The yogurt brings coolness and acidity to balance the smokiness. Full-fat yogurt is creamy enough to sit in a generous layer on the plate; Greek yogurt works too, but it’s thicker and sometimes more sour. Stir in lemon zest and juice, then add cilantro and parsley. Cilantro brings a distinctive, citrusy herbal flavor, while parsley keeps everything green and fresh. Not a fan of cilantro? Use extra parsley and, if you like, a little finely chopped mint.

Corn adds a different texture from the soft peppers. Pat the kernels thoroughly dry, especially if you’re using canned corn: moisture slows browning and can cause splattering when the kernels hit the hot oil. Fresh corn kernels are handy when corn is in season, usually in summer and early fall; canned or frozen corn works well the rest of the year. Let frozen corn thaw first and dry it too. Use a roomy skillet and don’t stir constantly, so the kernels make proper contact with the pan and develop golden-brown spots.

The chili oil is meant as an accent, not a dominant sauce. Use a mild oil for subtle heat, or add more at the table for anyone who wants extra spice. If you don’t have chili oil, a pinch of chili flakes stirred into the corn or a small splash of neutral oil with chili flakes will do. Taste the yogurt before serving: the lemon and salt should brighten the dairy, but not overpower the fresh herbs.

Serve the dish as soon as the corn is cooked, so it stays crisp and contrasts with the soft peppers and cool yogurt. It goes well with grilled chicken, pan-fried fish, or lentils and bread; it’s also at home on a table with several vegetable dishes. You can prepare the peppers and yogurt ahead and keep them covered in the fridge. It’s best to cook the corn just before eating, and not to leave cold components at room temperature for more than two hours. Let the yogurt and peppers lose their chill briefly before serving, but don’t serve them hot: the contrast with the warm corn is just right.