Charred broccoli with Vietnamese lime fish sauce

Smoky edges with fresh contrasts

Broccoli takes on a very different character in a hot oven than when you boil or steam it. The florets turn dark and lightly crisp on the outside, while the stems stay tender. So don’t trim off the stalk: peel away the tough outer layer and cut the inside into thin strips. They cook alongside the florets and soak up the dressing well. Dry the broccoli thoroughly after washing; wet florets are more likely to steam than develop browned edges.

The dressing draws on a flavor combination found in various Vietnamese dishes: sour, salty, a little sweet and chili. Here, the acidity comes from lime and the salty umami character from fish sauce. Sugar rounds off the sharpness without making the dressing sweet. First stir the sugar into the lime juice, then add the fish sauce. Fish sauces vary in saltiness, so taste and, if needed, add a small splash of water to mellow the dressing.

Roasting works best on a spacious baking sheet: if the florets are crowded, they release moisture and brown less well. Where possible, place them cut side down and roast for about twenty minutes in a well-preheated oven. The exact time depends on the size of the florets. Take them out when the edges are dark brown and a knife passes through the stems without much resistance; you’re looking for roasted spots, not completely black broccoli.

Mint and cilantro bring a cool, green aroma that contrasts with the smoky vegetables and spicy dressing. Use both for a distinctly fresh flavor, or swap one herb for the other if that suits you better. No fresh red chili on hand? A pinch of chili flakes works too. Roasted peanuts add a satisfying crunch; coarsely chopped cashews are a useful alternative. Add the herbs and nuts just before serving so they stay fresh and crunchy.

Serve the broccoli warm as a side dish with rice, noodles or grilled tofu, fish or chicken. You can also put it in the middle of the table with other vegetable dishes; the fresh dressing makes it a good match for richer, mildly seasoned dishes. Once cooled, leftovers can be stored covered in the refrigerator and eaten within two to three days. If possible, store the dressing and herbs separately. Reheat the broccoli in a hot oven until piping hot all the way through; the florets will be less crisp than when freshly roasted.