ABOUT THIS RECIPEGreens beneath crisp layers
Chard has two clearly different parts: sturdy stems and tender leaves. Both go into this tart, but not into the pan at the same time. Frying the stems briefly first and adding the leaves afterwards lets the stems cook through without the leaves wilting too much. Chard is often readily available from spring through autumn; young leaves are tender, while larger leaves are a little sturdier and can cook for slightly longer. If you use chard with colourful stems, they’ll add colour to the inside of the tart, too.
The key to a crisp base is a dry filling. Chard releases a lot of moisture as it cooks. So let the wilted mixture drain and press it down firmly with the back of a spoon. Then leave it to cool before mixing in the egg, feta and lemon zest. Feta adds saltiness and creaminess, while lemon zest and dill keep the filling fresh. Taste before adding extra salt, as feta varies in saltiness. A little breadcrumbs absorbs any remaining moisture without making the filling heavy.
Filo pastry dries out quickly once the package is open. Keep the sheets you’re not using under a clean, lightly dampened cloth and brush each sheet with a thin layer of olive oil. This keeps the layers separate so they bake up crisp. If a sheet tears, simply lay another piece over it: the layers don’t have to be perfect. A 24-centimetre metal springform tin gives the tart a sturdy shape; line the base with baking paper if you like, so the tart is easier to remove later.
This tart is Greek-inspired, with its combination of leafy greens, feta, dill and filo pastry, but it isn’t an attempt to recreate one specific regional version. No chard on hand? Use leaf spinach and drain it just as well. Parsley can replace some of the dill, although the flavour will be less anise-like. Serve the tart warm or at room temperature with ripe, juicy tomatoes; a splash of red wine vinegar gives the salad some zing alongside the salty, rich pastry. Cover any leftovers and refrigerate within two hours, then eat them within three days. Reheat in the oven for a crisp crust.