Wide rice noodles, prawns, egg and Chinese sausage are tossed in a hot wok with a savory, slightly sweet sauce and smoky edges. At home, the best way to make this is to fry the noodles in two small batches: this keeps the wok hot and stops them turning soft and sticky.
Char kway teow is a Malaysian stir-fried noodle dish strongly associated with Penang. The name refers to flat rice noodles cooked in a wok. Wide noodles are the base; prawns, egg, bean sprouts and Chinese chives add variety. Chinese sausage is included in many versions. Some preparations also contain cockles. This home version uses prawns and sausage, ingredients that are easy to find, and does not claim to represent one definitive or authentic combination.
The flavor is savory and a little sweet, with depth from dark soy sauce and a fresh, crunchy bite from the bean sprouts and chives. Chinese sausage adds little sweet-salty bites among the noodles. Use light soy sauce for saltiness and dark soy sauce mainly for color and a rounder flavor; they are not interchangeable. Oyster sauce brings the sauce together with the noodles. A little chili paste adds heat, but feel free to leave it out if you prefer a milder dish.
The characteristic smoky flavor comes from briefly cooking over high heat, often called wok hei. A powerful wok burner helps, but a regular stovetop can also give good results. The practical adjustment is to cook smaller batches: one serving at a time in a well-heated wok or large frying pan. A full pan cools quickly, causing the noodles to steam rather than fry. So let them sit against the hot surface briefly before tossing. A home stove may not produce the same intense smoky flavor, but the noodles will stay separate and develop fried edges.
Dried wide rice noodles are a good option if fresh noodles aren’t available. Soak or boil them according to the package directions, but drain them as soon as they’re pliable and still have some bite: they’ll continue cooking in the wok. Chinese sausage is often available at Asian supermarkets; slice it thinly so it heats through quickly. If you can’t find it, you can leave it out. That will change the flavor profile, but the prawns, egg and savory sauce still make this a complete dish.
Serve the noodles right away, while the bean sprouts are still crunchy and the sauce hasn’t dried out in the pan. They’re a complete meal on their own, but also go well with a fresh bowl of cucumber or some extra raw bean sprouts at the table. Cool leftovers quickly after the meal and refrigerate them within two hours. Keep them covered and eat them within two days; reheat thoroughly in a hot pan. The noodles will soften as they sit, so they have the best texture straight from the wok.
Soak or boil the rice noodles according to the package directions until pliable but still firm. Drain and set aside. In a small bowl, stir together the light and dark soy sauce, oyster sauce, water, sugar and white pepper.
Divide the noodles, prawns, sausage, eggs, bean sprouts, chives, garlic, chili paste and sauce into two equal portions ahead of time. This lets you work quickly without overloading the wok.
Heat a wok or large frying pan over high heat until very hot. Add 1 tsp oil. Fry one portion of sausage and garlic for about 30 seconds. Add the prawns and half the chili paste and stir-fry until the prawns turn pink on the outside.
Push the ingredients to one side. Add 1 tsp oil to the empty side and crack in one egg. Stir until the egg just begins to set. Add half the noodles and half the sauce. Fry for 1 to 2 minutes, letting the noodles sit against the hot pan briefly so they fry rather than steam.
Stir in half the bean sprouts and chives and fry for about 30 seconds more, until the vegetables are warm but still have some bite. Transfer the portion to a plate and repeat with the remaining ingredients and oil. Serve immediately.
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