ABOUT THIS RECIPECrunchy, creamy and a little peppery
Celery is more than just a crunchy base here: its fresh, slightly peppery flavor balances the sweet pear and rich blue cheese. Slice the stalks as thinly as possible, using a sharp knife or mandoline. Thin slices take on a little dressing while keeping their bite. Use the small leaves from the heart, too; they have a pronounced celery flavor and go well with the pear. The salad is intended as a side dish for four, but with bread it can also make a light lunch.
Choose pears that are ripe but still firm. A soft pear will quickly turn mushy when mixed and release moisture into the dressing. Pears are often at their best in fall and winter, but the most important thing is that they smell fresh and still offer some resistance when gently pressed. Lemon juice helps keep the cut pear light in color for longer and gives the creamy dressing some much-needed freshness. First, whisk the yogurt, mustard, lemon and olive oil together in a bowl until smooth; this distributes the mustard evenly and keeps the dressing light rather than heavy.
Toasting walnuts is a small step with a big effect. Warm them in a dry skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan regularly, until fragrant and lightly colored in places. Let them cool before adding them: they’ll stay crunchier and crumble less easily. Keep an eye on them, as nuts can burn in no time. Blue cheese varies widely in saltiness and sharpness. A mild, creamy variety gives a softer result; a bold blue cheese makes the salad more assertive. Crumble the cheese on last, so you get both small salty pieces and larger creamy bites.
Mix the salad just before serving. This keeps the celery firm and stops the pear from drawing unnecessary moisture out of the dressing. Taste the dressing before adding salt: the cheese and mustard already bring plenty of flavor. If the salad is a little too tart, stir an extra spoonful of yogurt into the dressing; if it tastes a little flat, add a squeeze of lemon or a little black pepper. No walnuts on hand? Toasted hazelnuts give a pleasant crunch, too. Serve alongside a savory quiche, roast chicken or a simple lentil dish. Cover and refrigerate leftovers, and preferably eat them the next day; the texture will be softer by then.