Roasted cauliflower gets a rich, nutty sauce of brown butter, fresh lemon and salty capers. Hazelnuts add a little extra crunch to every bite, while parsley keeps the whole dish light.
Cauliflower has a mild, slightly earthy flavour of its own. Roasting the florets at a high temperature darkens the edges and gives the vegetable more depth, while keeping the inside tender. Give the pieces plenty of room on the baking tray: if they’re crowded, they release moisture and steam rather than brown. Cut the florets to roughly the same size so they cook at the same time. A few loose leaves can go into the oven too; they brown faster and turn deliciously crisp, but take them off the tray earlier if needed.
Brown butter brings a roasted, almost hazelnut-like aroma that works well with the cauliflower. The butter can go from golden to too dark quickly, so it’s best to use a light-coloured pan where you can see its colour. Take the pan off the heat as soon as the milk solids turn amber and smell nutty. Capers add saltiness and a savoury, slightly sharp note; lemon brightens the sauce and keeps the butter from tasting heavy. If the capers are very salty, rinse them briefly and pat them dry before adding them to the butter.
Hazelnuts add a firm bite and complement the flavour of the butter. You can toast them in a dry frying pan or, if there’s room in the oven, briefly on a second baking tray. Let them cool before roughly chopping them: warm nuts are softer and crumble more easily. Parsley adds a fresh, green flavour. No hazelnuts on hand? Almonds work too, though their flavour is a little milder. Finely chopped chives can replace the parsley, but use a little less.
Cauliflower is most widely available in the Netherlands from late spring through autumn, though it’s generally sold in shops outside that season too. Choose a firm head with compact, pale florets; you can cut away any small discoloured spots. Serve this side dish with pan-fried fish, white beans or lentils, or spoon it over a grain such as farro or pearl barley. Add the sauce and nuts to the vegetable just before serving: that way, the hazelnuts stay crunchy and the roasted edges keep their texture.
Preheat the oven to 220 °C (200 °C fan). Line a baking tray with parchment paper.
Toss the cauliflower florets with the olive oil, salt and some black pepper. Spread them out in a single layer on the baking tray, leaving space between the pieces.
Roast the cauliflower for 25–30 minutes, turning halfway through, until the florets are tender and have browned edges.
Meanwhile, toast the hazelnuts in a dry frying pan over medium heat. Shake the pan regularly and remove the nuts after 4–6 minutes, once fragrant and lightly browned. Leave to cool, then roughly chop.
Melt the butter in a small, light-coloured pan over medium heat. Stir as it colours until the butter is golden brown and smells nutty. Take the pan off the heat immediately.
Stir the capers, lemon zest and lemon juice into the brown butter. Taste and add a little pepper if needed.
Transfer the cauliflower to a serving platter. Spoon the butter and capers over the top, then finish with the hazelnuts and parsley. Serve immediately.
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