ABOUT THIS RECIPEA crust on both sides
The cauliflower is cut into thick slices here, so the center stays firm while the outside gets plenty of color. Cut the slices from the middle of a large cauliflower: the outer florets will come away on their own. Roast them on the baking sheet at the same time, with oil and salt, so nothing goes to waste. A hot oven and space between the pieces are important; on a crowded tray, the cauliflower will steam rather than roast. Turn the steaks carefully, as the raw slices can break.
White miso gives the sauce a mellow, salty umami flavor; sesame oil rounds it out and rice vinegar keeps it fresh. A little honey or maple syrup softens the sharpness, but the sauce shouldn’t be sweet. Brush the cauliflower with miso only toward the end: the sugars and solids can make the sauce turn dark if it roasts for too long. It’s also best not to mix the sauce with the cooking fat on the tray; this keeps the flavor clear and lets you spoon some over the dish separately. White miso is mild, but other types of miso can be stronger and saltier. Use a little less and taste before adding extra salt.
For crispy rice, cooled, cooked rice works best. It’s less moist, so it browns more easily in a frying pan. Press the rice into a thin layer and let it sit for a few minutes before turning it over; stirring too much prevents a crisp crust from forming. Leftover rice can come in handy, as long as it was cooled quickly after cooking and kept refrigerated. Don’t reheat rice more than once: fry it until piping hot throughout and serve right away.
Cucumber, lime and fresh herbs balance the roasted flavors. Thinly slice the cucumber or shave it into ribbons, and mix the salad just before serving so it stays fresh and crisp. Mint and cilantro both work; use just mint if cilantro isn’t your preference. Serve the salad alongside the cauliflower, not underneath it, so the crispy rice doesn’t get soggy. The cauliflower and rice are best fresh from the oven and pan. If you have sauce left over, keep it covered in the refrigerator and use it within a few days; scoop it from the bowl with a clean spoon.