ABOUT THIS RECIPEA stew with tender eggplant and firm tofu
Cà tím om đậu is a home-style Vietnamese combination of eggplant and tofu, stewed with tomato and seasoned with a savory sauce. The eggplant absorbs moisture and flavor, while the tofu keeps its shape in substantial pieces. Tomato adds a little sweet-and-sour freshness to the stew and helps form a sauce that need not be heavy. The exact herbs and seasonings vary from household to household and from region to region; this version keeps the familiar basics and uses spring onion for a fresh finish.
Eggplant is widely available in the Netherlands in summer and early autumn, but can generally be found all year round. Choose ones with smooth, glossy skin and firm flesh. Cut them into generous pieces: thin slices turn mushy more quickly during stewing. Firm tofu is useful because it can be browned first and then cooked in the stew without falling apart. Pat the tofu dry before adding it to the pan; this helps prevent the oil from splattering and gives the surface better color.
Browning the ingredients before stewing serves a purpose here; it is not just for color. Golden-brown tofu gets a firmer exterior and therefore holds its shape in the sauce. The eggplant can also take on a little color, but it does not need to be cooked through at this stage. A short, covered stewing time afterwards softens the pieces while keeping them intact. Add enough liquid to make a sauce, but not a large amount: the tomatoes will also release juice as they cook. It is better to turn the ingredients gently than to stir constantly.
Fish sauce gives the sauce a deep, salty flavor. For a vegetarian version, use soy sauce instead; start with a little less and taste at the end, as saltiness varies between brands. Tofu firmness can vary from shop to shop, so keep the pieces intact when turning them. If the stew is still too watery, simmer it gently without a lid for the last few minutes. If the sauce has reduced too much before the eggplant is tender, add a splash of water.
Serve the stew with steamed white rice so the sauce doesn't go to waste on the plate. The tender vegetables and savory tofu need little else; extra spring onion is only appropriate if it is already among the ingredients. Refrigerate leftovers in a sealed container within two hours and use them within three days. Reheat them in a pan over low heat, adding a little water if needed to loosen the sauce again.