Crispy fried tofu, soft rice vermicelli, cucumber and a generous handful of fresh herbs: this Northern Vietnamese lunch dish is all about contrast. Serve it with the bold fermented shrimp dip mắm tôm, or make a milder fish sauce dip on the side.
Bún đậu mắm tôm is a Northern Vietnamese dish served in separate components: bún, fine rice vermicelli, and đậu, tofu. The tofu is warm and golden brown, the noodles soft and cool, and the cucumber juicy and fresh. Fresh herbs add fragrance and a lightly peppery note. Rather than mixing everything together in advance, you assemble each bite yourself and dip it in the sauce. This way, the different textures stay distinct.
The dipping sauce mắm tôm is made from fermented shrimp paste. Its aroma and salty flavor are pronounced; lime juice and sugar make the sauce brighter and rounder. Whisking the paste vigorously with the lime juice makes the mixture lighter and airier. A spoonful of hot oil makes the sauce richer, but doesn’t turn it into a mild sauce. Start with a small amount of paste if you’re not familiar with the flavor. Mắm tôm is available at Vietnamese and other Asian grocery stores.
Use firm tofu and pat it thoroughly dry before frying. Moisture on the surface makes it harder to get a golden-brown crust and can cause splattering. Fry the blocks in a generous amount of hot oil, leaving enough room in the pan; turn them only once the underside is firmly browned. A nonstick pan or a well-seasoned frying pan will both work. The tofu doesn’t need to be coated: a dry surface and hot oil are enough to give it a pleasant exterior while keeping the inside soft.
Rice vermicelli varies in thickness and preparation from brand to brand. Follow the package directions, then briefly rinse the cooked noodles with cold water so they don’t continue cooking or stick together. Mint, cilantro and Thai basil are easy to find here; if Thai basil isn’t available, use extra mint or cilantro. You can use another crisp lettuce in place of the lettuce leaves. Cucumber is especially nice as a counterpoint to the salty dip.
Put the tofu on the table right after frying, with the noodles, herbs, lettuce and cucumber in separate bowls. Mắm tôm isn’t for everyone; a separate, milder fish sauce dip made with fish sauce, lime, sugar and water is an option, but it isn’t the same sauce. Cover leftovers and refrigerate them promptly; eat within two days. Reheat the tofu in a hot oven or frying pan; the exterior will be less crispy if reheated in the microwave.
Cook or soak the rice vermicelli according to the package directions. Drain, rinse briefly with cold water and drain well.
Pat the tofu dry and cut into blocks about 3 cm across. Wash and dry the lettuce and herbs. Cut the cucumber into thin strips.
Make the mắm tôm dip: vigorously stir the shrimp paste with the lime juice and sugar until the mixture becomes a little lighter and airier. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a small pan until hot, then carefully pour it into the dip. Stir; add some of the chili, if desired.
For anyone who wants a milder dip, make the fish sauce dip separately: stir the fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and warm water until the sugar has dissolved. Add the rest of the chili, if desired.
Heat the 6 tablespoons of oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Fry the tofu in batches until golden brown and crispy all over, about 8–10 minutes per batch. Drain briefly on paper towels.
Arrange the noodles, warm tofu, cucumber, lettuce and herbs on a large platter or in separate bowls. Serve right away with the chosen dip or dips.
Main courseSweet corn, a splash of cream and a squeeze of lime make a hearty soup with both tender and whole kernels. Crispy tortilla strips, cilantro and chili oil bring freshness, heat and crunch to every bowl.
Main courseA hearty bowl of tender pearl barley, sweet cumin-roasted carrots and golden-brown chickpeas. The fresh sauce of herbs, lemon and tahini brings it all together, while toasted sesame adds a little crunch.
Main courseGolden brown and crisp at the edges, soft inside: these courgette and corn fritters get a fresh lift from lime yogurt and a little heat from chili oil. Serve them as a main course with a crunchy salad.