ABOUT THIS RECIPEBrown butter, fresh broccoli
This side dish is all about a small contrast: the deep, toasted flavor of beurre noisette against green broccoli, lemon and parsley. The butter is heated slowly until the milk solids turn golden brown and smell nutty. That aroma is rich, but can quickly turn bitter if the butter gets too dark. Lemon juice therefore does more than add freshness; it also lightens the sauce alongside the hearty vegetable. Parsley adds a green, herby note without overpowering the butter.
Broccoli is available year-round, though local supplies are often more plentiful in the cooler months. Choose a firm head with compact, dark green florets, and cut them to roughly the same size so they cook evenly. Peel the stalk if you like and cut it into thin slices: they’re just as useful as the florets and have a mild, slightly sweet flavor. Briefly boil the broccoli in plenty of salted water or steam it; either way, it’s important to keep it al dente. Overcooked broccoli holds its shape less well and quickly feels heavy under the butter sauce.
Beurre noisette mainly calls for attention at the stove. Use a light-colored saucepan so you can see the butter’s color clearly. First the butter foams; then the bubbles get smaller and golden-brown flecks appear on the bottom. Take the pan off the heat as soon as the butter smells nutty and turns amber. The pan stays hot for a little while, so don’t wait until the butter is dark brown. Spoon the butter, including the brown flecks, over the broccoli: those flecks are what give it so much flavor.
Serve the dish straight away, while the broccoli is still warm and the butter is glossy. It goes well with roast chicken, white fish or a savory lentil dish, but can also be part of a meal with potatoes and a green salad. For a slightly lighter sauce, stir a tablespoon of cooking water into the butter before pouring it over the vegetables. No parsley on hand? Finely chopped chives work too, though they have a milder flavor. Use lemon to taste; the aim is a fresh finish, not a distinctly sour sauce.